SB 413 
.C55 
S62 
1913 
Copy 1 



Smith's 

Chrysanthemum 

Manual 

Third Edition 



Elmer D. Smith & Company 

Adrian, Michigan 
Price Fifty Cents 



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Smith's 
Chrysanthemum Manual 

THIRD EDITION 



Mauy of the Important Chapters Have Been Revised and 

Enlarged. Giving More Complete Details, with 

Additional Illustrations. The Worlv is Practical, 

Not Only to Florists, Who Have Every 

Facility, hut to the Amateur. 



FULLY I LLU ^TR ATFD 



BY 
ELMER D. SMITH 

Who Has Given His Undivided Attention for Twenty-tive 

Years to the Improvement of the Chrysanthemum 

and Its Culture in Detail. 

19 13 



Copyr/i>hf, 191.^ 

by 

ELMER D. SMITH 



CONTENTS 

Page 

Chaiitcr J. — History 1 

Chapter 11. — Stock Plants 3 

Eai'ly Pioijagation 3 

Cold Frames 4 

Field C.iown 4 

Importeil Stock 4 

Novelties and S'aree Sorts 5 

ChaiJtei- HI. — Propagation 6 

Cutting I'.ench 6 

Selection of Cuttings S 

Making Cuttings 6 

Air and Temperature 8 

Shading 8 

Watering 8 

Saucer System 9 

English iMelhud f) 

Divisions ;» 

Potting in 

Chapter IV. — Sp^cimen Plants 11 

Soil 11 

Re-Potting 12 

Stopiiing 12 

Drainage lo 

Final l^otting 14 

Watering 14 

Staking 14 

Disbudding 17 

Feeding ....• 17 

Chapter V. — Miscellaneous Plants i;i 

Standards IP 

Market Plants 20 

Singli. Stemmed 2o 

Miniatui-e 21 

For Cut Flowers 21 

Grafting 22 

In Open Porder 23 

Hai'dy Chrysanthemum 24 

Chapter VI. — Packing Plants 25 

For Express 2.^ 

For Mail 26 

For Exi)ort 26 

Chapter VH. — Commi r^ial Flowers 28 

Soil 29 

Tying 31 

Watering 31 



COiVTKM'S 

Spraying 32 

Airing- 33 

Shading 33 

Scalding • 33 

Feeding- 33 

Chemical Fertilizers 35 

Liquid Manure 36 

Lime 37 

Iron 35 

Burning and Damping- 38 

Top-Dressing 39 

Removing StooLs 40 

Buds . . . . ■ 4u 

Early \'arieties 42 

Late Varieties 43 

Height of Plants 44 

When to Cut • 44 

Chapter VIll. — Exliibition Blooms 45 

Bench System 46 

Soil 46 

Planting 46 

Firming 47 

Tying- 47 

Buds and Disbudding 47 

Taking the Buds. . . . • 49 

Stopping 54 

Record of Operations 54 

Feeding 54 

Pot System 57 

Chapter IX. — Blooms Grown (^ut-of- Doors 58 

Australian Method (JO 

Shelter or Snug Harbor 62 

Chapter X. — Insects 64 

Aphis : 64 

Red Spiders 65 

Thrips 66 

Leaf Tyer 66 

Mealy Bug 68 

Grasshoppers 68 

Tarnished Plant Bug 68 

Corythuca Gossvpi 70 

Grub Worm 70 

Cut Worm 70 

Lady Bird 71 

Lace-Winged Fly 71 

Chrysanthemum Fly ■ 72 

Chapter XI. — Diseases 73 

Rust • 73 

Leaf Spot , 74 

Mildew 76 

Chapter XII. — Seedlings and Sports 77 

Seed Plants 78 

Fertilizing 78 

Seedlings • 81 



COiXTKXTS 



Sports 82 

Chapter XIll. — I'repaiin.t; Exhibil.s S4 

Plants S4 

Cut Flowers 84 

Foreign Shipments 88 

Dressing Floweis 89 

Chapter XIV. — Staging 91 

Stag-ing Plants 91 

Staging Blooms 91 

Boards yz 

Vases 93 

Chapter XV. — Exhiliitions 94 

The Management 9i 

The Judge 96 

The Exhiljitor 98 

Chapter XVI. — Classific-ation 100 

Incurved 100 

Japanese lOO 

Japanese Incurved 101 

Hairy 101 

Reflexed 102 

I^arge Anemones 102 

Japanese Anemones 102 

Pomiions 103 

Pompon Anemones 103 

Single 103 

Identification 103 

Selection 104 



Fis-. 


1- 


Fis-. 


2- 


Fig-. 


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FiK. 


4- 


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6- 


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7- 


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8- 


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y 


Fig. 


lo- 


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ll 


Fig-. 


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13 


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14 


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18 


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19 


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22 


Fig 


2?> 



Fig. 


25 


Fig-. 


26- 


Fig-. 


27- 


Fig. 


2S- 


Fi.g. 


2'J- 


Pig. 


30- 


Fig. 


31 


Fig. 


3 2- 


Pig-. 


33- 


Pig. 


34- 


Pig. 


35- 


Fig. 


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Pis. 


37- 


Fig. 


38- 


Fig-. 


3!)- 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Page 
Frontispiece. 

—Cutting- Bencli Tamp 6 

—Cutting- 7 

—Stock Grown By Flat System 11 

—Specimen Plant 16 

—Market Plants 19 

—Box of Plant.s Properly Backed 25 

— BLnch of Ivory Tied t.- Wires 30 

—Bench Showing I'lants Tied to Twine 32 

—Appearance of Foliage When Overfed 35 

—Blind Growth from Exce.ss've Nutriment 36 

—Crowns as They Appear on the Plant 48 

—Crown When Reserved 49 

—Lateral Retained for Later Bud 50 

—Terminals as They Appear 51 

—Terminals After Being- Disbudded 52 

—Showing- the Effect of Early and Late Buds 

Ul)on the Form and Color 53 

—Bud Properly Expanding- 55 

--Buds Distorted from Excessive Pood 55 

—Buds Blasted by the Use of Too Strong Fer- 
tilizers 56 

—Shifter or Snug- Harbor 62 

—Leaf Tyer Showing tlie Larvae, Clirysolis and 

Moth Stages 67 

—Tarnished Plant Bug 6S 

— Depredations of the Tarnished Plant Bug-; 

Branch Showing- Mass of Blind Growth 69 

—Lace- Winged Ply Sliowing Larvae and Mature 

Stages 71 

— Plo-wer trimmed Ready for Fertilization.... 79 

— 1. Pistillate Flor. t. II. Staminate Floret.... 80 

—Wrapping a Bloom 85 

—Bloom Wrapped 86 

—Blooms Properly Packed 88 

—Incurved 100 

— -Japanese 100 

— .lapanese Incurved 101 

-Hairy 101 

— Rellexed 102 

— Large Anemones 102 

—Pompon 103 

— Jaiianese Anemone 104 

—Pompon .An- mone 105 

—Single 105 



INTRODUCTION. 

During the past twenty-tive years, I have devoted inm.-h 
tuue and energy to the cultivation and improvement ol' the 
rhrysanthenium and have received many inquiries from 
those desirous of gaining knowledge on thi.s suiiject. Con- 
fronted with these facts, and realizing the urgent need for 
a complete, as well as practical treatise, at a price within 
the reach of all, I malce this attempt in compliance with 
these demands. 

It is my desire to concisely set forth in these pages all 
details pertaining to Chrysanthemum culture, beginning 
with stock plants, treating tlie many liraiiches, through 
each stage of development, up to and including the staging 
«>f plants and cut blooms. 

Most of the works iipon this snliject have l)een confined 
to methods practical only to tlorisls. having every facilitv 
ne<-essary to successful cnlttu'e. 

The amateur, growing a few plants for pleasure and 
eager for better results, lias been entirelv overlooked. It 
is lioped this lX)oklet will meet the requirei.icurs of all. 

There is no plant which responds more freely to care- 
ful attention than the Chrysanthemum. The whole secret 
of success lies in prompt attention to details, and when 
these are thoroughly undei-stood and e.xecuted, we may 
<>xpect a generous reward. 

The celerity with which the First and Second Editions 
sold has prompted my issuing this Third Edition. I trust 
that my efforts will be of assistance to many. 

ELMEU D. HMITII. 

Mmnber of the Vhriisaittlit'iii kih Hocirtii of America 

The 'National Chry^ianthcmton Society of Eiuitand, at'd 

Society Francai^ie des Chrysaiithcmistes. 



Smith's Chrysanthemum 
Manual 



CHAPTER 1. 



The derivation of the word Chrysanthemum is from the 
Greek words Chrysos, gold — and Anthemon, a flower. Tt 
IS not easy to say how long the Chrysanthemum has beeii 
known to mankind, but undoubtedly over 2.000 years have 
elapsed since it was first known in the Celestial Empire. 

In Japan its cultivation can be traced back over TOO 
years. Breynius. in 1G89. was the first European to men- 
tion the Chrysanthemum under the narae of Matricaria 
Japonica Maxima. M. Pierre Louis Blancard introduced the 
first large flowering varieties into England in 1TS0, and the 
following year they were flowered and named. Mr. John 
Salter was one of the earliest English hybridizers, and pro- 
duced many wonderful varieties from 183S to 1848. 

As near as can be ascertained, they were introduced 
into America about the year 1847. Dr. H. P. Walcott is 
credited as being the first person in this country to rai>e 
new varieties from seed, which he did as early as 1870. 
The work of hybridization was taken up by Wm. K. Harris 
and John Thorjie early in the SO's. 

Their efforts were crowned with great success, both 
originating many new and startling varieties. These re- 
sults were incentive to others until tlie zenith was reached 



2 SMITHS fHKYSANTllKMUM MANUAL 

in 1894, when l(Jo new varieties were offered for sale, many 
of which were inferior to those then in eonuuerce. This 
oonclitiou eansed many to he skeptical, doubting the merits 
of the so-called novelties, nntil fully tested. 

In the meantime, John Thorpe had conceived the idea 
of organizing a society to protect the interests and also 
promote the development of this flower which was fast gain- 
ing ii(ii)nl;irity. In 1S'.»(». ;it r.urr;ili>, the (irganizatinn no.v 
known as the Chrysantlieniuui Sdcicty of America was 
established. In 1804 tliis Society appointed committees 
composed of experts to meet during the following season at 
Chicago, Cincinnati, riiiladelphia. New York and Boston, 
to inspect seedlings and sports. These committees have 
been continued from year to year, awarding first-class cer- 
tificates to the deserving ones. 

Such action brought the varieties certificated into prom- 
inence, and those which failed to meet their connnendation 
were so little sought after as to be unju-ofitable, and many 
discontinued hybridizing. 

The first exhibition given by the C. S. A. was in No- 
vember, 1902. under the ausiiices of the Ilorlicultural So- 
ciety of Chicago. Since then they have been held aiuiually 
in tlie large cities both East and West. 



CHAPTER II. 



STOCK PLANTS. 



At the close of the flowering season the old plants must 
be saved for stock, from which to propagate young plants 
for another j^ear's use. Each grower should decide how 
many will be required and provide the most suitable situ- 
ation for their maintenance. 

The amateur will need only two or three of a kind, 
while the commercial florist may need several thousand of 
the most popular sorts to meet his demand. Some varieties 
are more susceptible of being increased than others, mak- 
ing cuttings abundantly and rooting freely. 

Those who propagate for their own use only, should 
keep the plants in a low temperature, just above freezing, 
and even a few degrees of frost will not materially injure 
them. They thrive best when kept on the dry side during 
the dark days of winter, at which time the.v are rather in- 
active. The florist who requires quantities for early dis- 
tribution will be obliged to give higher temperature, about 
50 degrees; and their needs for water should be carefully 
considered, avoiding, if ]»ossib]e. too abundant and frequent 
use. as such a course tends to weaken the plants, thus 
giving sickly cuttings. 

Another plan adopted by many private gardeners and 
those requiring only a limited number of plants, is to root 
sufTicient cuttings in November and dispense with the old 
stock plants. 

Earhi Propauation — Stock plants for early propagation 
are generally planted on greenhouse benches, producing 
successive crops of cuttings. With the new and scarce sor's 
it is sometimes advisable to take cuttings even as early as 



4 SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

Seittciiiber or October, and, as soon as rooted, these are 
jtlanted in shallow lioxes or upon the bench. When large 
enough, the tops are taken off as cuttings. This induces the 
plants to make new breaks, which are used for cuttings 
wlKMi of suitable size. 

('(lid Fra)ucs — The cold frame system is the most prac- 
tical for those who do not have greenhouses, and the whole- 
sale florist who needs large quantities of plants for June 
ami .Tuly delivery will find them equally serviceable. 

In the construction of cold frames, there is no objection 
to excavating one or two feet, provided ample drainage can 
be secured ; otherwise it is best to make board frames and 
plant stock on the level or slightly elevated so that no sur- 
I^us moisture will remain about the roots. Stock thus 
stored should be protected by covering the frames with 
lioards. To prevent continual freezing and thawing, these 
fi'amcs iiinst be covered with coarse manure or litter. Most 
varieties ai'e not injured by freezing, provided they are kept 
in this condition until spring. 

Field Oroiri) — Field grown stock is in every way more 
satisfactory than that which has produced blooms under 
glass. They appear to possess more vigor and give suc- 
cessive crops with greater rapidity. These may be handleil 
i'l cold frames, as previously mentioned, or removed to 
greenhouse when early projjagatiou is necessary. 

Imported (S7ocA- — Those importing foreign varieties often 
find tliem in very ](i>or condition when unpacked. This is 
not to be wondered at when w(> consider they are from two 
to six weeks in transit. They are generally ]iacked in dry 
cocoanut fiber, and when taken from the box look like dry 
sticks. It is only by the iitmost vigilance and care that 
such plants are nursed into activity. Immerse them into 
tepid water for a few hours to plump the wood and roots. 

After removing all lifeless growth, pot them in light 



STOCK PLANTS 5 

soil, using as small a pot as will accomodate the roots. 
It should be the aim to iuduce root growth as soon as pos- 
sible and, to do this, plunge them into a close case which is 
provided with gentle bottom heat — about 70 degrees will 
suffice. See that the material in which they are plunged is 
kept on the dry side, and use water rather sparingly until 
they begin to grow freely. They should be looked to several 
times each day, and if the plants or soil show signs of fun- 
gus, ventilation must be given for such conditions, if not 
promptly checked, are fatal. It is often wise to remove the 
cuttings when quite small and root them, especially if the 
old plants are weak or show signs of deca.v. 

By taking this course it is possible to estalilish a small 
plant upon its own root, which would otherwise be lost if 
allowed to remain until the old plant had gained vigor. 

Novelties and Scaree Sorts — Novelties and scarce sorts 
are often bought in limited quantity to propagate from. 
The best results are obtained by planting these young 
plants into flats (shallow boxes), or upon the bench in 
shallow soil. As soon as they show signs of growth, the 
tops are taken as cuttings and the plants are treated there- 
after same as stock plants. 

It is imprudent to over-propagate, b.v taking ever.v 
cutting as soon as large enough to root ; better let the cut- 
ting get strong, so that a few leaves are left on the plants. 
This will greatly assist in maintaining strong, healthy stock 
plants. 



CHAl'TJJli HI. 



PROPAGATION 



Assiiiiiing the old plants (stock plants) have been cared 
for and are in proper condition, the next step is the propa- 
gation of young iilants. This is licst done with soft wood 
cuttings or divisions; the former, however, are generally 
used. 

Ciitthifi Bciivh — The cutting bench is simply a table or 
bcnrli conslructcd to hold three or four inches of material 
into which the cuttings may be inserted. Clean washed 
sand is considered the best material, but when unavailable, 
coke, brick or stone, finely crushed and screened, will give 
very s.itisfactory results. After the bench is filled witli 
sand, it siiould lie pounded as firm as possible and given a 
thorough watering when it is ready for use. In preparing 
these lienches. see that nil material is <'lean and free from 
di'<-aying matter, and to tliis end a i-ont of wliitewash will 
be beueticial. 




FIG. 1. CUTTlNCi BENCH TA.MP. 



iScJcclioii of ('iiltiinis — 111 the selection «.r eiittings. it is 
.generally conceded I lie strong and vigoi'ous are the best. 
Stock jtroperly handled will give good cuttings, and we 
WKidd take weak ones only when ab.solutely necessary- 

Mdhiiii/ CaUuiii^ — These are cut from an inch to three 



PKOPAGATIOM 7 

inches long, removing tlie lower ;ind shortening the tips of 
the larger leaves. See Fig 2. 

With a knife make a cut in the sand % in. deep, or 
more, according to length of cuttings, inserting close to- 
gether and firm the sand well about them. Give the whole 
a liberal watering and keep constantly wet until rooted, 
which w\U require six to twenty days. 

To insure the largest percentage, the cuttings should be 
moderately soft at the time they are removed from the 
plant. Single eye cuttings of new and scarce sorts may be 
used when necessary. These are fastened to toothpicks 
with fine stemming wire, allowing half of the toothpick to 
extend below the end of the cutting, which should firmly 





(TTTIXCIS- 



SKN'GLE EYE. 



rest on the sand when inserted in the bed. See ('. Fig. 2. It 
requires more time to produce good plants by this system 
than where fair-sized cuttings are taken, but is often of 
service when stock is limited. 



S SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

Air ami 'I'ciii pcriil iirc — The propayatinji house should 
be well aired and as Car as possible the atmospheric temper- 
ature should not exceed "to degrees, with a bottom heat of 
10 degrees higher. 

The Chrysanthemum is so susceptible of being rooted 
that no fast rule can be given. They may be struclc in a 
temperature as low as 40 and as high as 80 degrees, but if 
the former is ado])ted they root very slowly, many varieties 
l)ec()me hardened and thus the object is defeated. On the 
other hand, if too high temjierature is used, cutting bench 
fungus is lialde to set in and ruin the crop. 

Sliiidiiin — As the season advances and the outdoor tem- 
perature rises, it is impossible to maintain ."•."; degrees, and 
the soft cuttings are very much inclined to flag or wilt. 
For this jiurpose we use a light wrapping paper, in rolls 
"0 inches wide, which is given a coat of linseed oil and 
then tacked to the sash bars of the house. This shading 
iieing semi-transparent, gives satisfactory results thmugh- 
out the pro])agating season. 

In case of an excessive bright and hot spell, white- 
wash or any otlier good shading material should be applied 
to the outside of the glass, Let the condition of cuttings 
be index for shading, but use every precaution ner-essary 
to j>revent wilting, exclude light by covering and dampen 
the walks to lower the tem]ieratin"e. 

Waici-iiif) — It is very important that cuttings should 
never get di-y. for under siicli conditions the end inserted 
in the sand becomes brown ;ind hardened and will not 
take u]) water in sutlicient ((uantity to revive the foliage, 
and thus becomes worthless. Many of the wholesale 
florists pro]iagate Clii-ysantliennuns the year round, al- 
though the bulk ai-e struck from March to .Tuly. 

Another method largely emidoyed in ralifornia and 
other suli-tro]iical states, is to use cotton cloth as a cover- 



PROPAGATION 9 

ing for the propagatiug bouse or frame. This excludes 
part of the light and prevents the wind from drying them 
out. The cutting beds are usually made upon the ground, 
using sand as a material to hold moisture and sustain them 
until they make roots. Large quantities of cuttings are 
successfully handled in this way along the Pacific Coast. 

tiaucer (S'z/s^f'"i — Those who wish to propagate a few 
plants and are not favored with the facilities of the 
greenhouse, may use shallow boxes or any dish that will 
hold a few inches of sand. A dozen or more cuttings 
may be inserted at a time by adopting the "Saucer 
System" given by Peter Henderson in bis work. "Practical 
Floral Culture," which is as follows: "It is called the 
Saucer System Iiecause saucers or plates are used to hold 
the sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put 
in to a depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted 
in it close enough to touch each other. The sand is then 
watered until it becomes the condition of mud, and placed 
on the window sill fully exposed to tlie sun. But one con- 
dition is essential to success, until the cuttings become 
rooted the sand must be continually saturated and kept iu 
the condition of mud ; if once allowed to dry up the whole 
operation will be defeated." 

EiuiJifili Dlctliod — The Englisli method may also I(e ,)f 
service to the amateur and is as follows: Insert three or 
four cuttings around the edge of a four-inch pot that has 
been previously tilled with light soil, consisting of loam, 
sand and leaf mould, equal parts. These are placed into a 
close frame and given same attention as suggested for Im- 
ported Stock, pg. 4. 

Dirisioiis — In localities where the plants remain out-of- 
doors over winter without injury, they can be increased by 
removing the sprouts or stools that have sprung up from 
the base of the old plant. As tiiese stools come into active 



](' SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

yrowlli. roots are foniiod near tlio surface of the soil, and 
may then lie removed and replanted or potted as desired. 
Often such pieces are dillicult to iK>t owing to the long, 
crooked stems. These are removed, leaving a few roots to 
establish the young plant. New varieties are generally pro- 
duced by seeds, which are fully treated in Chapter XII. 

PntiiiKj — Cuttings should not remain in the bench after 
the roots are half an inch long, as they ai'e potted easier, 
making better plants in evei'y wa.v than when allowed to 
remain until tlie roots are further developed. 

The soil should not be dry, but moist enough to remain 
intact when squeezed in the hand, and, on the other hand, 
not be nuiddy. Cuttings are usually potted in small pots, 
the two-inch size being ample. Put sufficient soil in the 
bottom of the jiot so that the base of the cutting will be 
about % of an inch below the sin-face, bold cutting in center 
of iiot with one hand ,'ind fill in with the other. Firm the 
soil, witli thumb or fingers, enough to keep the cutting up- 
right, and lie sure to leav<' sufficient space for water, which 
should be ajiplied lilierally without delay. 

Putting the cntlings in Hats (shallow boxes), instead of 
liottiiig, lias long been in vogue, and is a good course to 
pui'.-nc. insuring good stock at planting time with less labor 
invo!\-c(l. See Fig. ">. 



CHAl'TFAi IV.* 

SPECIMEN PLANTS 

ruttiiigs may be taken any time from January lOtb to 
March 15th, but those struck in February Rive best results. 
As soon as rooted they ai'e potted in 2-in. pots, using light 
soil, and placed in a cool, airy house and as near the gla^s 




STOCK GROWN BY FLAT SYSTEM. 



as possible. If given i)roper attention, such plants will 
make large specimens from three to six feet high, and nearly 
as wide, by tiowering time. In the course of a week or ten 
days the roots will push to the side of the pot and will need 
shifting into the next larger size. 

>S'o(7 — There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited 

"This chapter is largely writings which have appeared in the Ameri- 
can Florist and are from T. D. Hatfield, WcUesley, Mass., wdio has been 
eminently sncce-sfnl in tliis imimrtant branch of chry?anthemnni culture. 



]2 smith's fllinSAXTHEMLXI MANUAL 

for ('lirysantliiMmiiiis. Endi export hns a way of his own in 
lircjiaring tlu' soil, but as equally uciid results have been 
obtained under varied conditions, it is safe to conehnle that 
the compost employed lias little to do with results, provided 
it contains sufhcient food to nourish the plant and the cul- 
tivator is a close oltserver. considering; the conditions under 
which they are grown. 

All concede that fresh cut sod piled late the preceding 
fall with one-fourlh of its bulk of decomjiosed manure, 
makes an excellent compost. 

Ixcpoftinn — Turn out tlie idants. take them with the left 
hand and place in the new ]iot (which is generally an inch 
largei- tlian the one from whicli they were I'emoved I so that 
the ball is a half an indi below the rim n\' the pot and the 
I»lant stands in the center. While held in this position, fill 
in sufhcient soil and firm gently with a stick around the pot, 
until it is filled Ipvel with tlie original ball of earth. If the 
soil is retentive and rather wet. the rannning process can 
be carried to extremes, but if of a light nature, it shoidd be 
made r;itlier firm, and when the final potting is done, it can 
scai'cely be carried to excess, 

StopiiiiHi- 'Tho term "stoiiping"' means pinching out the 
center of a shoot, and the object is to force the plant to 
make sever.-il growths instead of tlie iiresent one. 

When the jdants are estalilished in four-incli pots, they 
are generally from four to six inches liigh. and at this stage 
the pinching and stojiping begins. This sliould be done a 
few da.vs Iiefore repotting or deferred until aft<'r the plants 
have made roots into the new soil. This induces the plant 
to make several side shoots, and as soon as these have 
attained four or five inches in length the.v are again stopped. 
This work is repeated throughout the season up to August 
10th. Some of the varieties may be stopped a trifle later, 
but each cultivator must know the flowering time of those 



SPECIMEN PLANTS 13 

under bis care. The early varieties set bud earlier, aud it 
may be wise to discontinue stopping some of these as early 
as August 1st. By April 1st to 15tb tbe plants should be 
in full vigor and ready to shift into six-inch pots; with this 
potting use a richer soil by adding to the ordinary compost 
a dusting of wood ashes, and a little pulverized sheep 
manure. The latter should be used in very small pro- 
portions. 

l)niiii(i(ic — Free drainage is essential and we would 
recommend charcoal to be used for such varieties as are 
liable to burn. Coal ashes are also a good material for this 
purpose and may be used as advantageously as broken 
crocks. Pot firmly when the soil is light, and loosely when 
the soil is heavy. At this stage the plants are carefully ob- 
served, their manner of growth noted, also tendenc.v to 
break, and liability to disease. The good as well as the 
bad points are almost certain to appear during April, and 
only such as promise well are shifted up to the largest sizes. 
Some of the varieties have the habit of setting premature 
buds at this stage of growth. Such conditions are unfavor- 
able to the production of fine specimens, although the 
greater majority will outgrow this defect after the bloom- 
ing period has passed. 

From 1st to 1.5th of May another shift will be necessary 
and this time into seven or eight-inch pots, according to the 
varieties. The weaker growing should be put into the 
smaller size, and the stronger ones into the largest. As the 
plants at this season begin to assume some size, and owing 
to the higher temperature which prevails, the watering will 
need constant attention. In repotting at this time, the plants 
should be set low enough in the pot to allow ample space 
for water, not less than an inch, but better an inch and a 
half, to hold sufficient water to saturate all iiarts of the soil. 



34 .SAIITIl's ( HRYSANTIIEMUM MANUAL 

riiKil I'oitnuj — The final putting occurs from June 1st 
to 15tli ; for tliis give a richer compost, using a rather 
rough open soil containing a large iwrtion of broken, half 
decomposed sods. This nnist he packed more firmly in the 
pots. A close, heavy loam is bad, but if it must be used, it 
should be only lightly firmed; sufficient sharp sand may be 
used to keep the water passing out freely. 

WalcriiH; — All experts agree (hat the plants should 
never suffer for want of water, and consider it one of tlie 
most important details in all stages of development. On 
the other hand, it is very important that the drainage be 
ample, so that the water passes through freely, thus pre- 
venting stagnation, a condition conducive to disease, which 
will finally result in failure. 

II sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants 
in ]»>ts is not fully indicated by the api)earance of the soil. 
A very .nccurnle course to follow is to i-ai> the pots ^^•ilh the 
knuckles or a slick: those tliat ;ire wet h;tve a dull sound, 
tliose that are diw a liollow sound. .V few days' trial will 
teach tlic ojierator to detect the difference in sound in an 
instanC 

Sldl^inU — During August many of the plants will have 
attained considerable lieight. even though tlicy have lieen 
stoi)ped every few days. Those which are inclined to make 
too dense growth sluudd be provided with a few stakes and 
the branches gradu;illy tied out to the desired form, thus 
making a foundation to l>uild uiion later. These stakes will 
need to l)e removed later on. and re]ilaced by larger ones, 
when it is determined bow tall the ]ilants are likely to grow. 

Early in Seiitemlier it will be necessary to consider the 
liiial staking and tying out. 'i'he main object in specimen 
jilants is to develoji as nmny growing shoots as possible 
before the middle of Angtist, arranging them so as to keep 



SPECIMEN PLANTS 

the plants even and regular in form. How this is to be done 
is somewhat a matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at 
once, as more shapely plants can be formed. If the plants 
are desired for exhibition purposes and to be transported 
some distance to the exhibition hall, the stake system is 
preferable to that of the wire frame, the advantage being 
that plants tied to stakes can be drawn together so there 
will be no friction, and at the same time occupy much less 
space. 

The best course to follow in the matter of staking and • 
tying largely depends upon the size and form to which they 
are to be trained. The Japanese growers shape their plants 
into many artistic designs, such as crosses, fans, boats, 
parasols, etc. When such forms are to be perfected, it is 
necessary to make a temporary frame-work of wire or 
stakes to which the shoots may be tied out into the form 
desired, and this should be provided before the plants at- 
tain any great size. The forms generally adopted for ex- 
Jiibition groups are round and slightly elevated in the cen- 
ter, as shown in Fig. 4, page 16, and are grown all sizes 
from three to six feet in height and nearly as wide. 

The operation of staking is simply placing stakes into 
the soil, the outer ones at such an angle as to bring the 
branches in the desired position to give the plant the re- 
quired diameter. Additional stakes are supplemented to 
hold the Inner branches in position. 

The best material for tying is silkaline. which does not 
slip : being soft, does not injure the shoots, and as its color 
is green, is not so conspicuous as where white string is used. 

Tying out should not be left too long : in fact, it should 
be done every few days. There are always some overgrown, 
vigorous shoots which are difficult to accommodate, but 
while supple they will bend easily. A had hole or open 
space can sometimes be filled by these strong growths. 



SPiXIMKN PLANTS 17 

bending them down and tying securely. When specinieu 
plants are grown for conservatory decoration, or where they 
can be practically transported to tlie exhibition hall, the 
wire frames may be used. 

When wire frames are used, tie as many shoots as 
possible to the lower part of the frame, as the greatest 
danger is congestion at the toi». 

DixhiKldiiifi — The operation of disbudding will need 
attention early in September, the early varieties setting 
buds first and the later ones following, according to the 
natural flowering time. For early exhibitions, say the 1st 
of November, Imds should be prominent by September ITi, 
and showing color four weeks later. At least three weeks 
are re<iuired after they show color until maturity. 

Generally all the specimen plants i)roduce terminal 
buds; each shoot bearing a cluster at the extremity, wliich 
is disbudded so as to leave only one bud to each, and this 
the center one. In this wa.y the flowers are uniform in size, 
and if the plant has been well trained and tied out, these 
individual blooms will nearly touch each other. 

After setting buds, the plants' will begin sending out 
suckers from the roots in all directions, which, if allowed to 
remain, rob the buds of the nourishment which has been 
provided for their development. These should be removed 
at once and this operation repeated as often as they appear. 
as well as any lateral growths which nui.v start from the 
shoots. 

Fccdiiii/ — The application of stinuilants requires careful 
consideration and should be entrusted only to persons of 
.iudgment and discretion. With the roots so much confined 
in the pots, even more care is i-equired than where the 
bench system is emplo.ved in the production of cut iilooms. 

The pots must be filled with roots and the drainage per- 
fectly free to begin with. If cow manure is used as a top 



],S SMITHS CIIKYSANTUEMUM MAxNUAL 

(Irossing, it would be best to dry it tirst and afterwards 
break into small pieces. This acts as a mulch and fertil- 
izer at the same time. As a safe and lasting stimulant, 
jiulverized sheep manure is preferred, which should be ap- 
plied in tlie form of a top dressing, adding a little sandy 
lo.-mi to keep it open. Licpiid manure may also be used if 
(lie ])lant continues healthy, applying once a week at first 
and twice oi- three times a week later. Sulphate of am- 
monium and nitrate of soda are sometimes used with won- 
derful results, but nmst be applied with discretion. 

From the time the buds are set, success depends very 
nnich upon the judicious use of fertilizers, either in lirpiid 
form or a top dressing. Some plants will take liquid 
maniu'e in liberal amounts; others, if so treated, are easil.v 
injured. Over-feeding shows itself in yellow, stunted foli- 
age. When tliis occurs, use clear water and let them get 
as dry as they can with safety. 

The grower needs to be ac(|uainted with the plants as 
with individuals: it is a matter of ox|)erience and. when 
carefully done, may be continued luitil tlie buds show color. 
Tt is, however, worthy to note that pink and red varieties, 
including bronze, show lack of color and also burn easil.v 
if feeding is continued too long. Plny's fertilizer is a good 
manure and perfectly safe to use oitlier as a liquid or top 
dressing nuxed with a little loam. Soot water at times and 
weak lime water will sweeten the soil. 

"I'iie drainage nnist. Iiowever. be kept free, and this is 
sometimes difficult at the end of the season, when the pots 
are fdled with roots. Puncbing boles through the ball to 
the di-ainaL'c will generally relieve water-logged plants. 



CHAI'TEIi r. 

MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 



Staiulard-s — Tlie cultural directious given for specimen 
plants will be suitable for this purpose. The greatest differ- 
ence being the training, allowing them to grow without 
stopping until they have attained the desired height. 
Standards are generally about tivo feet to the lower 

b r a n c lies, 
although 
there is no 
fixed rule 
on this sub- 
.1 e c t. and 
they may be 
grown a n y 
height, from 
three feet 
(which are 
termed half- 
standards. ) 
to the height 
m e n t ioned 
a 1) o V e. It 
is necessary 
the cuttings 
be propaga- 
ted earl y. 
When need- 
ed, provide 
with one strong stake for each plant, to which it is tied to 
keep the stem straight. As soon as they reach the desired 




MARKET PLANT. 



20 smith's ClIIiVSANTlIKMUiM MANUAL 

lici.ulit jiiiiili out tlio renter. The several breaks whieh fol- 
low form the foundation for top or head of the standard. 
Tliese are nipjied e\ery few days the same as specimen 
l)lants. Tlie ti'aining will recpiire some care and attention, 
as well as dislmddinii:, feedin.i; and other details. 

I'lir Mttrlcl — Dwarf plants of symmetrical form, with 
foliaiie down to the pots, are the most salable, and when 
thus grown require constant attention as to watering and 
sto]iping. allowing each plant plenty of room to keep the 
lower leaves in a healthy condition. Cuttings taken June 
1st and grown on, either in pots, planted on (dd carnation 
benches, or in spent hot-beds (light soil preferable) and 
lifteil by August 15th will make very nice plants IV2 to 2 
feet high. The reason for lifting early is to have them well 
established in their flowering pots before the buds are 
foi'nu'd. 

Another system is sometimes employed whieh gives 
very dwarf synunetrical plants and often utilizes consider- 
able stock that would otherwise be worthless. Cuttings 
that were struck late in June and potted in two-inch pots 
may be put several together in one pot about August 1st, 
provided they are in thrifty condition. Three plants to a 
five-inch jiot and five or six to a seven-inch and so on. By 
sorting and placing the taller in the center and shorter at 
the edge, very symmetrical plants may be had. Disbudding 
and feeding will need attention to assure best results. 

.S'/h/z/o iStemmrtl — ^The same cidture as given for market 
plants will suffice for this class, except they are generally 
grown in pots and restricted to one stem and flower. Those 
from one to two feet in height are more effective and iiseful 
than taller ones; foi- this reason many jirefer phuiging out- 
of-doors where they will have full benefit of the siui and 
air, making them more dwarf than when grown under glass. 

Cuttings rooted early in June are best for this pnrpose. 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 21 

They must be repotted, staked and tied as their needs de- 
mand. In July the final potting takes place and the soil 
should be made very firm to secure short-jointed growth. 

Miniature — There has not been much attention given to 
this class in this country, although cultui'al directions are 
given in many of the old English works. 

The best time to take cuttings is from the first to the 
last of August, according to the earliness of the variety. 
They are taken at the period when the buds are just begin- 
ning to form and if delayed until very far advanced, the 
^^•ood becomes hardened and will not root freely. These cut- 
tings should be potted immediately into light soil and placed 
in a close frame which has been made the same as a hot- 
bed with fresh manure to give forth a gentle bottom heat. 

In .selecting cuttings take strong shoots from plants in 
the open border or those grown under glass, and if the 
.selection is made from those which naturally do not grow 
liigh. so much the better. A ?, to 3^2 inch pot is large 
enough for this purpose. After the cuttings have been 
plunged therein they must be covered with a sash and 
shaded to keep out the strong light. It is also advisable 
to sjiray them over two or three times a day which will 
maintain the most gciial coiiditinn for root formation. 

As soon as I'ooted (which may be ascertained by turn- 
ing them out) air should be given the frame, a little at first 
and increasing every few days, to gradually harden the 
plants to a natural condition. In tliis manner plants can 
be had S inches high with I)looms ."i inche< in diameter. • 

For Cut Florrrrs — The pot system is emploved by all 
English growers and doubtless most of those on the Conti- 
nent. Culture, same as for Market or Single Stem as far 
fls training is concerned, shifting from time to time as di- 
rected for specimen plants. Propagation may take place 



22 smith's CUKYSANTIlEMirM MANUAL 

from February to May, aceordiiiy to the variety and 
reuuiremeuts of tlie cailtivator. Througljoul England these 
plants are potted and plunged in the open border as soon 
as danger of frost is over, and could be so treated in this 
country if it were not for the ravishes of the Tarnished 
Plant Bug, which is so numerous. 

If exhibition blooms are desired they may be grown to 
single stem, or stopped early iu June, saving three breaks 
which are grown on, each to produce a tlower later. 

ilruftiiifi — Tliere are two objects in grafting chrysan- 
themums, Hrst, to increase the vitality of weak growing 
^'arieties by grafting upon strong kinds. Second, to dis- 
lilay ;i number of varieties on one plant at the same time. 
To the exiterienced gardener tliis art is of little or no in- 
terest, but to tlie novice tliere is something wonderful in the 
sight of a plant having a dozen or more distinct varieties 
Uowering simultaneously. Such plants attract a great deal 
of attention at the exhibitions. 

Where it is the desire to increase the vitality, cuttings 
are struck in the autumn or winter months, and grown on 
in a cold greenhouse until early spi'ing. These are used as 
stock uiwn which to graft, and should be done in March or 
April. Select scions from the weak growing kinds and cut 
the end in the form of a wedge. After cutting out the top 
of the stock an incli or so above the ground, make a slit an 
inch in depth in the stiuup and insert the wedge shai)ed 
scion, tying securely in place with ratlia or light cotton 
varn. 

It is necessary that the wood of both stock and scion be 
in a half-ripened condition, reasonal)ly firm, and if possi- 
ble have lioth the same size. In case it is impossible to 
find scions of the same diameter as the stock, the scion 
should be set to one side of the incision so tliat tlie bark of 
both will be even on one side. A moist, warm corner of 



MISCELLANEOrS PLANTS 23 

the greeiilaouse or auy place where a close atmosphere can 
be uiaiiitained for a few days will be necessary to insure 
their uniting. If the weather is warm and the sun very 
bright it is sometimes advisable to shade the plants to pre- 
vent scion from wilting, and occasionally sphagnum moss 
is tvrapped around the union and the foliage moistened 
to prevent too rapid evaporation. As soon as the scions 
be 'ome established, which is generally in the course of 
eight or ten days, the tying material can be removed and 
the plants given more air, receiving the same care and 
attention as other plants. 

For grafted specimens it is important that all the 
varieties should flower at the same time, and to secure 
maximum effect some thought should be given to arrange- 
ment of the colors. The most showy specimens are pro- 
duced by grafting upon strong growing standards, using 
one variety to each shoot. All lateral growths or breaks 
starting out of the stock should be removed as fast as thoy 
appear. 

In Open Border — Most of the previous forms of plants 
may be grown in the open border with fairly good success. 
The essential points are that they be planted on light soil 
which permits of their being taken up without breaking 
away too many roots. If large specimen plants are to be 
treated this way, ample space must be given so they do not 
become crowded, and afford the operator room to attend to 
stopping, etc. 

The lifting and potting sliould be done not later than 
August 15th, so that the plants will become well established 
in their new quarters before buds are formed. After potting 
ft is necessary they have a copious watering and be set in a 
sheltered place out of the sun and strong drafts as much as 
possible. An old shed that will afford some light is a very 
suitable place. 



24 smith's chrysanthemum maxNual 

From this tiiiio on little waler will he re(iiiire(l at the 
idot until they have become thoroughly estalilished. Tt 
will be advisable, however, to' dew over the foliage several 
times eaeli day to prevent flagging. As soon as estab- 
lished, give light, gradually increased each day until they 
can stand full sun. 

If aid II ChriisaiitlKiii luiis — Most Chrysantliemums are 
liai'dy (lut-of-doors in the northern states with sliglit pro- 
lection as far as their roots are concerned, but fail to be 
satisfactory o\\ ing to early frosts which ruin the buds when 
in a half-devcldiK'd condition. The most scrxiceahle 
varieties are tlic early dowering Pompons, whi<-li perfect 
their llowers liefore frost. ;\rany of the later ones can lie 
used to advantage in Ihe soutliern states, or in localities 
\\iiei'e severe frosts are not expected until Die middle of 
November. 



CHAPTER VI. 

PACKING PLANTS 

For Express — For shipments not requiring more than 
five or six clays to reach destination, paeli in wooden boxes 
that have been previously lined with paper or other 
material to Ivoep out the frost. Tlie plants should be 
thoroughly watered, turned out of the pots and wrapped 
tight in s(ime sort of pliable paper to keep the earth intact. 
With a light coat of excelsior on the bottom of the box, the 
plants are then placed in rows close together on their sides, 

with ball of earth 
next to end of the 
box. This is fol- 
lowed by another 
row in wliicli the 
ball is placed 
next to that in 
the first row, the 
operation b e i n g 
repeated until 
bottom of the box 
is covered. In 
putting in the 
next tier, reverse 
them, beginning 
at the other end 
and so continue 
unti 1 finished. 
The main object 
is to pack secure- 
ly, p r e v e n t ing 

them from shifting, even though roughly handled. Any in- 
tervening spaces between the plants and side or top of the 




FIG. (■). BOX OF PLANTS 



PROPERLY PACKED. 



2(5 smith's ciirvsa^tiiemum manual 

box should be tilled with excelsior, sawdust, or some other 
material, so that if the package is turned upside dowu they 
cannot move about. (See Fig. G.) 

Inexperienced packers invariably fail in this respect 
and often when the plants reach destination they have so 
sliiftod in the box as to be entirely destitute of soil, as well 
as badly broken. See to it that they cannot move. 

Each variety must be labeled and some means provided 
so that the recipient can unpack without danger of getting 
them mixed. A system many have adopted is to wrap one, 
two. three or four plants of a kind into a bundle, each 
bundle being provided with a label, and are thus packed. 
Where five or more of a kind are ordered they are separated 
by a sheet of paper. 

In very severe weather it is sometimes necessary to 
wrap the boxes witli several thicknesses of paper as a safe- 
guard against frost. In very warm w'eather the foregoing 
method is impractical, as tliey are likely to heat and thus 
be ruined. From May to October the plants are generally 
wrajijied and set upright in shallow boxes which have been 
provided with a post in each corner to whicn crcars nre 
nailed. Then slats are placed an inch apart to form the 
cover, thus assuring a free circulation of air. 

For if ail — In Packing plants for mail shipments the soil 
is washed from the roots, these are then wrapped in damp 
moss and wax paper in small bundles, containing not to 
exceed '2~> in each bundle. These are generally labeled with 
a tough ])aper label and packed in paraffine lined boxes or 
those made of corrugated board. All mioccuiiied space 
nnist be filled firmly witli excelsior or similar material. 

Foi- Export- — In packing foi- export there arc two sys- 
tems employed, one for the winter months, when they are 
jtacked tight, and the oilier foi- summer, which sliould pro- 
vide light and air to the plants. When pacl^ed close, 



PACKING PLANTS L'T 

excessive moisture is to be strongly guarded against. 
Under sucli conditions tlie plants are sure to rot if they arc 
to remain packed more than six days. There is sufHcier.t 
moisture in the plant itself to retain vitality for some time, 
and whatever is used to fill up the intervening spaces should 
he perfectly dr.y. Moss, excelsior or cocoanut fiber are 
the best materials for filling. 

Plants that are to be exported should be put into a cold, 
airy house for a week or ten days and watered very spar- 
ingly so as to harden the wood, as the.v usually perish in 
transit if the growth is soft. Before placing in the lioxes rp- 
move most of the foliage as it is very apt to die and cause 
decay. The balls of earth should be wrapped in dry moss 
and tied securely. Place the plants in an upriglit position, 
on the bottom of the box, using a cleat to each row ; to hold 
them secui"e. If the weather is severe, protection against 
frost will be necessary, and may be provided as previousl.v 
described. 

In hot weather the same method is employed with tli<> 
exception that damp moss is used, wrapping each ball with 
wax paper. Holes are bored through the sides of the box- 
to admit light and air. The holes are generally covei'ed 
on the inside of the Itox with galvanized wire screen to 
keei) mice from girdling them while on ship-board. 

Small foreign shipments are sometimes made by re- 
moving the soil and placing the plants in tin boxes, filling 
the intervening spaces with dry cocoanut fiber or moss. Tt is 
very important when packed in tliis manner that all tlie 
leaves be removed except those undeveloped at the top. Tf 
the plants have been hardened there will be little loss. Tt is 
easy to test an.v system of packing, l)v jtreparing a sbii)ment. 
and lay it away for a period equal to that required in 
transportation, after which it may be opened and the condi- 
tion of the plants carefully noted, or if desired pot them 
to ascertain bow nianv will survive. 



CIIM'TER Yll. 

COMMEHCIAr, FLOWERS. 

'I'lie yoncral ])uhli(' (1<) iit>t consider the difference in 
(■li;ir;i<t<M' of tlie iiiaiiy v;irietios now srown. bnt admire 
tlit'iii lor the lieanty displayed. Witli the Florist it 's 
far different as he raises llowers for tlie sole pnrposc of 
})]a<'ins them on the market from a rennmerative standiioint 
and thns shonld be familiar with their merits and defects. 

Commercial varieties are those which possess the desired 
qnalifications and characteristics to meet tlie demands nf 
the grower, wholesaler and consumer. 

Those most in <lemand are of easy culture, growing; 
only to a moderate height (not to exceed four feet) and jiro- 
duce flowers of jileasing colors. White is prolmlily in 
greatest demand, next comes yellow, then pink: with a 
decided jn'eferencc to those which are most jinre in their 
respective color tones. 

Red and hmnze are grown in comnai-atively small 
quantities. 

Form and sul>stance are liotli given consideration: those 
that do not ship well are soon condemned. 

When the stock is to he handled thi'ongh tlie commis- 
sion houses and n^shijiped to the retailer, the incurved 
varieties generally stand the handling with least injury. 

As ;i rnle the Foreign varieties do not meet the requir"- 
ments of the commercial grower. Tt is imiterative they lie 
planted early, selecting ci-own Imd to secure double flowers. 
Tf planted in July very few of those from abrond can com- 
liai'e with American sorts. The reason is obvious. 

Tlie Foreign raisers of seedlings, I'cserve tliose whicli 
l)roduce the largest flowers — irrespective of other character- 
istics, as tlie exhil)ition class is most in demand. 

Tn America the bulk of the i)lants sold are tliose having 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 2'J 

commercial merit, hence those interested, seloi-t from their 
seedlings those producing the most pleasing colors, best 
foliage with strong, erect stems in preference to size alone. 

The grower who invests largely iu foreign sorts, with 
the expectation of superior quality of salable stock, is 
prone to disappointment. Inability to plant early, as well 
as failing to give as close attention to details as the exhi- 
bition expert can, are the causes of the grower's downfall. 

The length of time required to produce the crop, 
whether the desired date of flowering be early, midseasoii 
or late and the quality of blooms best suited for the grower's 
trade, are matters which must receive consideration before 
selecting the kinds and deciding upon the best cultural 
methods. 

As the vigor of the plants has nuich to do with tlie 
quality of blooms, we would recommend planting stock oi' 
midseason kinds from 2-inch pots early in June (early and 
late varieties will be treated under separate headings). 
Cuttings struck early in April should be in fine condition 
for June planting, nine inches apart each way is about 
tlie right distance. If the demand is for medium rather 
than large flowers they may be stopped, allowing two or 
more breaks to grow^ on, each to make a bloom. 

Soil — Fibrous sods cut :] inches thick and piled grass 
side down the preceding fall with one-fifth their bulk of 
half decomposed manure makes an excellent compost for 
filling the benches. If it is heavy clay some sharp sand 
should be added to increase the porosity. 

Four or five inches of soil in the IjcucIi is the right 
depth, the former preferal)le. When planting firm well 
around the plants, leaving a slight dei)ression to receive 
the first few waterings, the object of this course is to keep 
the soil from becoming sour. As soon as there are signs 
of active grow-fh wiiich usually requires about two weeks. 



30 



SMITHS ( III:"! SA.N'rHIM IM MAMAI. 



the water should he inrrrased uratliially until llic wimk- 
is thoroughly satui'at<'(l. 

Frt'sh cut sods arc ciiually servict'al)!^ provided they 
are in'operly handled. If rut as direeted tliree inches 
I hick, one thickness may b" laid grass side down and the 
reniaindei' of the bench space lilled with line soil, or they 
may he run throu,i;li a sod crusher, placing the coarse;' part 
at the bottom and the fine on top. If either tliese methods 
are adopted a li,:jhl covering of manure may be placed on 









'^^r^' 




lJKi\( II OF "IVOKY Tli:i) TCl WIItKS. 



the bottom of the beucli before filling. We have grown 
thousands of fine blooms without tlie use of manure, relying 
ujion light applications of clienucnls as the i)lauts required 
it. Fibrous sods supjily .abumlauce of humus which is so 
essential to plant life. 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS .31 

TtjuKj — As soon iis the plants are S inches hi height 
some arrangement must he made for stalling and tying. 
There are several systems: — dwarf, short-jointed varieties, 
like Merza and others, may be tied to wires running full 
length of the row, supplying additional wires when required. 
See Fig. 7. 

Some use stakes fastened at the top to a wire stretched 
tight over each row. ^lost conuuercial places use the 
twine system, which consists of two wires, one over each 
row of plants and the other a few inches above the soil. 
Two-ply jute twine is cut the proper length and tied to lop 
and bottoDJ wire. To this twine the plants are tied as often 
as required. See Fig. S. 

Watering — From this time on the principal detail is 
watering, which requires constant attention and whosoever 
has this charge must rely on his own discretion. The plants 
being vigorous, will use up quantities of water each day 
and from this time until the flowers are cut they must not 
suffer for the want of it. At the same time we must guard 
against overdoing, particularly is this the case with many 
of the weaker growing sorts which suddenly tell us of our 
mal-treatment by the foliage beginning to turn yellow, 
showing a sickly appearance. The best remedy is with- 
holding water, not to a degree that will injure the plant for 
want of it, but sufflcient to restore its normal condition. 
Let the appear^fnce of the foliage be an index to the supply 
of water. 

As long as the foliage is luxuriant and healthy in color 
we may feel assured that the supply of water is not in excess 
of their demands. 

To maintain those conditions it is important that all 
dry spots in the Iienches be thoroughly wntcrod before 
spraying the plants. 

Those who prefer to do watering and spraying in one 



:''2 SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

(■'IKTatidU should walk hackwai-d, watering the dry spots as 
they ajipcar and then do the spraying. If the spray reaches 
the dry spots tlieir identity is lost and thus are passed by 
witlitiut fully saturating. 

spriii/iini — Spraying overhead will be necessary to keep 
Ked S|)iders in check, which are very hard to control. 
Tiiis iirocess will re<iuire some judgment, for if repeated 











I'lG. S. BENCH SHOWING PLANTS TH- I) TO TWINE. 

too often or late in the day it is apt to cause rust and other 
diseases. There is not so much danger during the liot 
summer months, but from August 15th to flowering time no 



COMMEKCIAL FLOVVEKS 33 

water slioukl be applied after 3 p. in., 8o that the phiiits 
will be perfectly dry by night. (See diseases.) 

Airhuj — The chryanthenunn does, not enjoy a close, 
stuffy atmosphere, hence an abundance of air during the 
growing season is important. 

Not only during the day but night also, at all times 
unless the building is in jeopardy from aiiproaching vio- 
lent storms. 

iSIiudiiKj — A few years ago it was considered necessary 
to give a light shading through the sunnuer months to 
Chrysanthemums planted under glass. This is hardly 
necessary in most localities, as shorter jointed plants and 
firmer wood result from full exposure to the sun. 

At the approach of color it is quite important the pink 
and red varieties be partly shaded from the direct rays of 
the sun, as these colors seem to be easily faded. There 
may be localities where this would be unnecessary, but in 
the middle states it often continues warm and bright into 
October and such precaution is necessary to .«ecure color of 
the highest degree. 

Scalding — After a few days of dull weather (which 
makes the growth unusually soft), followed by very bright 
sun, the young tips sometimes scald or burn. In such 
cases use every effort to prevent them from wilting. Fre- 
quent spraying will keep the atmosphere charged with 
moisture and be very beneficial. Should this fail, apply a 
light shading of clay to the glass. This is prepared l)y 
adding sufficient clay to water to make it muddy and 
applied by spraying over the roof. It is unwise to use a 
permanent shading, and the one suggested will disappear 
with the first shower, or by sitraying. 

Feeding — All plants ai'e sustained by the constituents of 
the soil of which Nitrogen. Potash and Phosphoric Acid 
are the chief elements. 



34 smith's C'IIUYSA.XTIIEMU.M maxiai. 

What effect each of tliese factors have upon the 
coustructiou of the phiiit and its tlorcscent need not he 
discussed at this time. ^Vllen tiiese nutritive inyredieuts 
are exhausted, liquid applications are given to supidy their 
needs and it is this operation to which the term feeding 
is usually applied. The effect of such applications are 
revealed by the appearance of the plants and the resultant 
flowers thus produced. From this it is evident that what 
actually takes place in this construction of plant life is 
very obscure, hence we must be governed wholly by observ- 
ance, determining their needs by what is presented to 
us in their growth. 

There are several w;iys to reach this desired end, viz: 
lirst toi> dressing with manure, the strength of which is 
taken to the roots in liquid form by the application of 
water. Second, by extracting the soluble parts of manure, 
diluting to the desired degree and applying in solution, 
third, the use of liquids made from soluble chemical salts. 
.\11 three methods are equal as far as ])roducing the de- 
sired crop is concerned provided they are .iudiciously aj)- 
plicMl, but there is a marked difference in the cost of material 
and labor involved. The present price of manui'e, the 
lal)or required to make it accessible to the ])lant far exceeds 
the cost of chemicals. 

Stable manure contains 1 Vi per cent plant food (by 
Government Analysis), or 2."'> jiounds per ton. while some of 
tlio liighly concentrated chemical fertilizers now on the 
ni.-irket contain (m per cent actual jilant food. It requires 
2;! !") tons of manure to su|>iily tlic same amount contained 
in 100 pounds of such chemicals and when we consider the 
l;ilior re(iuired to handle tliis (in;nitily of m;innre wlien used 
as a top dressing or reduced to a liiinid. even the casual 
thinker is confronted witli the (|nestion -why all this un- 
nec(>ssary exjienseV The exiierimeulal station have taken 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 



up these matters hi detail aud set forth iu their reports 
that chemicals are equal to natural manures in the pro- 
duction of crops. 

"We use a mixture known as Fertilene, one pound of 
whicli is as efficient as 80 lbs of manure. The former 
is prefectly soluble while the latter must be leached in 
some way before it is available, one is clean aud odorless 
as so much salt, the other dirty and offensive when manipu- 
lated in any form. The strength of chemicals are known 
quantities and constant, while manures are uncertain and 
variable. 

Chemical Fertilizers — In the case of chemical fertilizers 
most of the failures are due to too strong application. A few 
years ago we were using Fertilene at the rate of 1 ounce 
to G gallons of w:iter, but recent observations indi- 
cate it should not 
be used stronger 
than 1 to to and 
when the soil 
contains consider- 
able manure ] to 
20 or 30 gallons 
gives far better 
results when used 
before the buds 
are selected. Some 
will consider this 
a very weak so- 
lution, I)ut exper- 
ience has shown 
FIG. 9. APPEARANCE OF it Sufficient and 

FOLIAGE WHEN OVERFED. the old adage 

"better be safe than sorry" will be appreciated by those 
who use such concentrated chemicals indiscrinuiiatclv. 




o(j 



SMITH S CIIRYSAXTIIEMUM MANUAL 



Once a week is as often as it slionkl be applied to 
most varieties and never when tlie plants show signs of 
dryness. A very good [tlan is to go over the benches and 
water all dry sjiots before aiipl.ving. It is a great temptation 
to tiiose who have not used chemical fertilizers to overdo. 
It must be laken into consideration when feeding solutions 

of any form they are taken 
np through the roots, and 
llie in-ocess of assimilation 
inniii'diatcl.N' follows. 

Food applied in this way 
is more availalile than any 
other, and herein lies our 
great danger: we are ap- 
plying a solution that is 
colorless. odorless a n d 
(asteless, luiving every ap- 
pearance of water. 

Li(iiii(l \/(iinirr — I.i(inid 
manure was in use many 
years liefore chemical fei'- 
tilizers w^re known and in 
the bands of the inexperi- 
enced is mucli safer. There 
are so many ways of form- 
ulating li(juid manures that 
it is impossible to give a 
definite rnl(> with assur- 
ance of having the best. 
Those of experience know 
by the color when it is safe to use, but such knowledge is 
difficult to im])art to otliers. The following rules are con- 
sidered safe: VL* bushel of horse or cow manure to 1 barrel 
of water. These |)ropoi-tions nre ]U'actically 1 pint to the 




FIG. 10. OI.KXD GUOWTII 
FKOM EXCESSIVE NUTRIMENT. 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 37 

gallon, so that those requiriug a small <iuantity cau make 
to suit their needs. Sheep manure is stvung and will re- 
quire 1^2 barrel of water for the same quantity. Hen and 
pigeon manures are excellent, but being very strong are 
safest when used in weak solution, and should not exceed 
1 pound to 30 gallons. 

In preparing these liquids the manure is generally put 
in a coarse burlap bag, allowing it to soak for two or three 
days. A box or barrel may be filled and water applied, 
leach fashion, but the liquid thus obtained is very strong 
and will need diluting. An old rule is to dilute to the 
color of weak coffee, but this is hardly safe as some of tlie 
strong manures give light colored liquids. 

As we know little regarding tlie strength of solutions 
made from material at our disposal, the sul).iect is more ir 
less a matter of guess. Fine blooms may be obtained by 
their use, and by closely observing growth of the jilant 
and quality of flowers it will soon be apparent Jiow to use 
for best results. 

Where the soil is fairly rich with manure there is 
little or no need of feeding until after they liave Iteen 
disbudded. If resorted to at all, the applications should 
be very dilute or the plants will become too gross at th's 
period, which is marked by the thick crisp or harsh feeling 
foliage. 

\^^len a leaf pressed between tlie thumb and finger 
cracks and will not return to its normal position it is 
evident the treatment has been too generous. Sucli condi- 
tions frequently cause some varieties to lier-ome blind, 
that is the joints do not elongate but form a compact mass 
of foliage at the top of the stem and literally refuse to 
produce buds. In either case it is liest to discontinue 
feeding, so that nature may help to rectify this error. 

Lime — Lime and iron enter into tlie construction of the 



oS SMITH S CHKYSANTIIEMUM MANUAL 

plant to a limited degree, but both of those are geaerally 
I'ouiid in siiffleient quantities in most soils. Lime acts as a 
decomposing agent, liberating ammonium and ndnerals 
contained hi the compost, and has a decided solidifying 
effect uix)n the plant tissues. It is best applied Ijy dusting 
air-slacked lime lightly over the surface of tlie bed and 
should be rubbed in with the hands or slightly raked before 
water is applied, otlierwise it becomes hard and is of little 
value. 

lri)ii — Iron may be applied in tlie form of inm tilings 
as a top-dressing or incorporated in the compost, at the 
fate of a pint to the bushel, or by dissolving a half-ounce 
of sulpliate of iron (copperas) in five gallons of water and 
apply this solution. It may be added in small (luantities 
to chemical or manurial liquids. 

BiiniiHf/ and Dampiinj — Experience teaclies us that the 
red varieties are more sensitive and first to show this 
defect. Some of the pink and white and occasionally a yel- 
low burn or damp when conditions are favorable. From 
th(^ fact that flowers ))r()ducod under ordinary cultivation 
are seldom thus affected it is quite ajiparent tliat the con- 
centration of food to tlie ]iet;ils is the main cause and this 
i;- augmented by excessive heat and moisture. 

To avoid such conditions put on full air early in the 
day and if possilde do all the waleiMng at tbis time, so that 
the plants and atmosphere may bei-ome thoroughly dry 
before night. 

In very damp weather it is sometimes necessary to turn 
on a little licat to keep tlic air dry and liuoyant, even if the 
temiterature does not demand it. 

The accumulation of food elements in tlie petals bo.vond 
a certain amount arc transformed by cliemical action of 
heat or dampness into an acid, which dissolves the tissues. 
Why lliis defect is so apparent in some varieties and not in 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 39 

others we are unable to say, unless lacking in the quality 
of substance. Get varieties thus inclined into active growth, 
and discontinue feeding after the buds become half devel- 
oped. They may lack a trifle in size, Init be consoled 
by the fact that your flowers are not ruined. Some compe- 
tent growers advocate the use of charcoal dust mixed in the 
soil as a preventive. 

Top-Dressiiuj — If the details given have been attended 
to. in the course of six to eight weeks the stock will be 
making rapid growth, and the roots extending to all parts 
of the soil. At this period they will require some addi- 
tional food and a light top-dressing of manure from spent 
hot-beds in a half rotted state, or dry pulverized cow or 
sheep manure may be used to advantage. 

If the stock has been planted by May IGth, this opera- 
tion will take place early in July, and .30 days later the 
second top-dressing may be applied. If the planting d()(>s 
not occur until the first week of June we would advise giving 
the first top-dressing second or third week of July, and 
second the third week of August, provided the plants are 
in a healthy, active state and appear to need further en- 
couragement. 

While top-dressing is very beneficial, it has one disad- 
vantage, and that is covering the soil so its condition cau- 
uot be readily determined by the eye. Some use tliree 
inches of top-dressing and apply it all at once. Watering 
under such conditions and do .iustice to the stock is diHicult. 
as it must be done by guess or the soil under the dressing 
be carefully examined; it may lie dry in places and wet in 
others. By making the manure fine, adding and thoroughly 
mixing an equal amount of loam, will furnish material for 
an excellent dressing. This can be easily distrilmted on 
the benches anv desired thickness, in accordance witli the 



40 smith's ( IIUYSAXTIIE.Xf cm MANUAL 

needs of the varit-ly lieins treated, or In consistency with 
the strengtii of tlie material used. 

If sheep manure is used one inch of tliis mixture is 
nmple for tlie vigorous kinds and less for the weak ones. 
When hoi'se or cow manure is used 1K> inches will be about 
right. This should be firmed down to come in close con- 
tact with the soil. In this way the dry spots will become 
npiiareut on tlie surface of tlie beds, which is the only 
object of this jirocess. 

If fine manure is not at hand and that of a coarse na- 
ture is substituted, it should lie i)laced between the rows 
leaving some sjiace next to the plants uncovered so the 
condition of the soil can be detected at a glance. 

Ronorinn <s7oo/.s — Plants that have been top-dressed 
soon throw up stools or suckers from the gromid. These 
should be removed as soon as they appear, care being 
taken not to injure the roots in so doing. This operation 
should be repeated from time to time as necessity demands. 

Bii(l>< — In this branch of chrysanthemum culture there 
is little nciossity that any great knowledge be acquired re- 
garding the two forms of buds, crown and terminals. 

Those interested in this subject see buds and dislnidding 
next chapter. 

It matters little whether the bud selected is crown or 
terminal. The im]>ortant knowledge to acquire is, what 
date gives the best flower. 

The bulk of chrysanthenuuns planted for commercial 
use do not set early crowns, owing to late i)lanting. Some 
make second crowns late in August, an.d those planted in 
.Tuly give terminals in Septeml»er and October. 

It is for this reason the mastery of these oliscnre terms 
ai'e unessential. 

All that the Tonunercial grower needs to know regard- 
ing this subject may be smnmed as follows: Buds of Early 



COMMERCIAI. FLOWERS 41 

varieties planted during May and June sliould be selected 
from August lOth to 25tb. 

Midseasou kinds Aug. 25th to Sept. lOth and the late 
sorts, Sept. 20th to Oct. 10, according to when the buds are 
apparent and of sufticient size to admit of disbudding. 

The dates given are resultant of many years' records 
and adequate. 

Buds of new varieties, or those which have not been 
tested, should be selected at intervals of five days, from 
Aug. 20th to Sept. 10th, attaching a tree label with the 
date it was retained. If the flower is single an earlier 
date may remedy this defect and if too double ov poor 
in color a later date may be beneficial. 

Such a course is the only way to become familiar with 
Ibis prominent feature and a record of the results should be 
filed for future reference. 

At flowering time it is easy to determine the best dates, 
and in making these deductions, let purity of color be fully 
considered. The various dates at which the buds of tlie 
white varieties are selected, will have no material effect 
upon the color. 

Decided variations are noticed in the pinks and yellows 
and the greater the difference in date of selecting the bud, 
the more contrast. The least permanent color is pink and 
it is intensified or reduced by variance in such conditions 
as heat, air, sunlight and date of buds. 

Flowers from early buds are the liglitest, and those 
from latest buds, darkest in color, provided other condi- 
tions are equal. 

Yellow is not so easily affected liy conditions, although 
some varieties described as yellow will become liron/.y on 
late buds. When the flowers are developing, an abundance 
of air, a light shading, to exclude the In-ight sun and a late 
bud, will give the highest color and best substance. 



42 smith's chrysanthemum manual 

Each grower must decide tlie best date for selecting 
buds, as the conditions he niaintains may be somewhat at 
variance with tliose of others. 

Late buds develop more rai)idly than the early ones, 
in fact there is very little difference in the maturity of 
those selected August inth. and September 5th, provided 
they are the same variety. 

Sbould tlie late buds intensify the color too much, giv- 
ing the i)inks an oI>jectionable purplish hue, and the yel- 
low come bronzy, it would be l)etter to decide upon an earlier 
bud for future crops, providing the other qualities are equal. 

The date of the buds also has effect on fullness and 
size of the flowers. The early buds give the largest flowers, 
and are more double, but the jietals are narrow compared 
with those from later buds. 

The tiower lniyiug public insist that the stems be of 
good length and well dotbed with foliage. All concede 
those produced from terminal buds are of brighter color 
and amply provided for as far as foliage is concerned, also 
much easier managed tban tlie crowns. 

EarJii — Since pul)lishing tlie last edition of this work 
flie flowei'ing season bas adv.-iiiccd two montlis. This is due 
to the introduction of (ioldcii (How and Siiiitli's Advance, 
lioth of wliich may be lind in lilooui from .Tuly to Octolier, ac- 
cording to wlien they arc pl.-intcd and date I be l>uds are se- 
lected. Formerly all varieties Ifowcriiig by October l.'tli 
were considered <'aiiy. but at ]irc^eiit such sbould be termed 
serai -early. 

Tliose desiring tlov^crs jirior lo ( )ct(iher sliould ar- 
range to beiicji the jilants in A])ril or cailv in .May, which 
would necessitate tlie cuttings licing ]int into sand in March, 
securing buds in .Tunc. .Tnlv or early .\ngust. according to 
wlicn tlic\' appear. Sliould tlie c;iiiy or crown bud develop 
too caiiv on Smitli's .\dvaiice, it mav lie removed and tlie 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 43 

next one secured, but Golden Glow usually i)roduees buds 
as soon as the benches are filled with roots, and the lateral 
growths which follow the early bud terminate in a cluster 
of terminal buds so that the removal of the early bud will 
not greatly retard the flowering season. With this vari- 
ety the date of planting should be considered before hand 
If the crop is desired at a certain time. From past experi- 
ence we would suggest planting in early IVIay for flowers 
late in August and early September, and early in June for 
late September crop. By planting every two weeks from 
May 10th to June 25th, succession may be had from Au- 
gust 20 to late October. 

Such semi-early varieties as Monrovia and Oct<»I)er 
Frost should be planted early in May if September flowers 
are desired and buds selected soon after July 15th. Both of 
these varieties pi'oduce I'ather thin flowers wlien planted 
late or where the later buds are retained 

The slow development of these early buds gives size 
and fullness that cannot be otherwise obtained. We can 
not too strongly impress the importance of early planting, 
all kinds that are needed before November 1st, and it 
should be the endeavor to have them benched early in June 
at the latest. It is foolish to expect early flowers from 
late planted stock, even though the varieties are naturally 
earl.v flowering. 

Laic — For late flowers select varieties which naturally 
mature late, and keep them in a growing state as long as 
possible. To secure late buds give a liberal amount of water 
and at the approach of cold nights lessen the supply of air; 
tliis will tend to kep]i the growtli soft. The mid-season 
varieties planted late in July or early August are usually 
satisfactory. When this plan is adopted do not use very 
rich soil and withhold liquid fertilizers until disbudded, 
otherwise the.v are apt to come blind. Buds secured from 



44 SiMITIl's C HKYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

October 1st to luth will perfect tlowers between Thanks- 
giving and Christmas. 

Ilcifilit of riiijits — It is sometimes advantageous to take 
crown buds rather tlian terminals, owing to limited space 
between lieuch and glass. 

To know the height a variety will attain at maturity is 
inniortant, particularly wlien head room is limited. If 
records have not lieen kept it is wise to confer with those 
who give these mattei's constant study and can suggest 
varieties suitable for tlie purpose. 

Wlicii io (Jut — At ^^■hat stage of development the tlowers 
should be cut is i>erplc.\ing to some. The ]»etals have more 
substance when fully matured, and for this reason most 
varieties should not be cut before center petals are de- 
volojied. This gives greater depth, adding to tinish <!f 
blooms, as well as increasing the keeping (pialities and are 
thereby in better condition to stand the wear and tear of 
shipping and li.-indling. It is allow.Mldt^ to cut early 
varieties unm.-itui'cd, if f.-uicy ]iriccs result tiierefrom, other- 
wise it is best to let them stand. X'arieties having open 
centers when fully developed may also lie cut premature. 
All blooms should be stored in water at least 12 hours 
before .sending to the market. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

EXIIiniTION BLO0^1S 

The term Exliibitiou Blooms rofei's to the varieties 
which are most serviceable in displaying the greatest devel- 
opment of size, and as size is the chief characteristic con- 
sidered, many of the best kinds for this pui'pose arc of little 
consequence to the commercial growei". There are a few 
possessing commercial qualifications which are of sufficient 
size to he of some importance at the exhibitions, especially 
where the schedule calls for 25 or more blooms to be shown 
on long stems in one vase. In such competitions rigid stems 
with an abundance of foliage close to the blooms often so 
enhance the exhibit as to merit the award over those having 
greater size, but deficient in stem and foliage. Such varie- 
ties as Col. D. Appleton. W. H. Chadwick and its several 
sports. Timothy Eaton and Yellow Eaton, etc., are well 
adapted to this purpose. 

In beginning this chapter we wish to impress upon the 
reader the fallacy of laying down hard, fast rules, for many 
of the best growers obtain satisfactory results under a 
system of their own or at least attribute their success to 
certain methods not usually followed, and yet equally good 
results are reached by other courses. The first steps neces- 
sary in the production of the largest and finest blooms is 
to establish strong, vigorous jilants and maintain this con- 
dition throughout their existence. Lack of water, food, light 
and air or an over supply of water and food are debili- 
tating. There are two systems which may be employed — 
one to plant upon benches, as directed in preceding chap- 
ter, and in pots similar to the method followed by the 
gardeners of England. The only difference is they plunge 
their plants out of doors until the apiiroadi of the flower- 



4tJ smith's CIIRYSAXTIIEMU.M MANUAL 

iiig season, while we grow them under ghiss entirely. This 
system is looked upou with favor by most of the private 
gardeners in this country. 

It is conceded that early propagation is essential if we 
excel in this undertaking, as a long period of growth seems 
to impart greater vigor. Cuttings shoidd be started in Feb- 
ruary or early March at the latest. "When rooted, pot into 
small pots and keep in a cool, light and airy house. A low 
temperature, 4U degrees or as near as jiossible, is preferal)le 
to exciting growth, with greater heat. A light, friable soil 
(decomposed sods preferred) containing one-tifth of its 
bulk of well rotted manure and half tliis amount of half 
decayed leaves tJiat have l»een rubbed through a screen, is 
requisite. 

Boich (S'y/.s'/c/«— Assuming the cuttings have been rooted 
and potted into small i>ots and ]ilaced in a cool place, 
watering and giving all the air ]iossible is ;ill tl!(> attention 
required for the next few weeks. As the roots come through 
to the sides of the pots they will need shifting into the next 
size larger. If the.v are first in two-inch pots, three-inch 
will I>e reijuired for the first shift and 2ij-inch in .Ti.j-inch 
or 4-inch. ^Yhen propagated in February it may be neces- 
sary to shift again in still larger sized pots to prevent them 
from becoming pot bound and thus check their growth. 

.s'o;7 — Complete directions on this subject given in the 
jireceding chajiter are ai)plicable here as well as the jirepa- 
ration of the Iienc^hes. 

Pl(iiiti)ui — Those who have hou-^es of sntlicient height 
and can plant l)y ^f.-iy ir.tli. doubtless have best results 
inasmuch as the plant has a longer iteriod of growth and 
becomes tlioroughly established. 

As to depth of soil it may be from four to six inches, 
tlie former preferred, as there is less liability of its Iiecom- 
Ing sour by overwatering liefore the jilants are well estab- 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 47 

lisliod. When the benches are made ready and filled, the 
next step is to decide how far apart they shall be planted. 
There are many opinions upon this subject and without 
question the best results are obtained where ample room is 
given for full development by free admission of air. 
Ten to twelve inches apart each way is little enough; much 
depends upon the size of the foliage. In planting, firm them 
well, leaving a slight depression around each plant to re- 
ceive the first few applications of water, but do not wet 
entire until the plants make new roots and are strong 
enough to utilize all the soil. 

This coudition is apparent at the pushing forth of vig- 
orous growth which indicates a corresponding strong root 
action. At this stage the whole soil should be watered. 

Finning — After the plants begin making rapid growth, 
go over the bench with a brick or heavy mallet and firm 
the soil, so that the original four inches will not exceed 
three when firmed. If of a porous nature it can scarcely be 
overdone, but if stiff clay, caution is advisable lest the 
drainage be impaired. By planting in siiallow soil and 
firming it well, conditions are established very similar to 
those of the pot system, which will produce short-jointed 
plants. 

Tyhifi — The directions given Commercial growers will 
hei'e suffice. Those who prefer stake instead of twine can 
stretch a wire three feet above the bench over each row and 
tie wire or bamboo stakes thereto, to which the plants are 
tied as soon, and often, as their growth requires support. 

Buflx and Dhbiiddinfi — At just what time to save the 
buds is ever a very perplexing problem to the exjiert. inas- 
much as climatic conditions have a great deal to do with 
the results. The change of temperature which takes place 
in the autumn months has a tendency to ripen or solidify 



48 



•SMITH S CriRYSANTIIEMUM MANUAL 



tlio wood. ;ui(l is iininedintcly followed by bud fovmntlon. 

Ill t li noi'theni 
heinispliere this 
clianiio iienerally 
takes place from 
the 1st of August 
10 the 1st of Sep- 
lonibei', according 
lo location. Those 
living at a high 
altitude or adja- 
cent t o large 
bodies of water 
are first to feel 
I be change, hence 
;ir<' favored with 
t'.-iiiy buds. In the 
southern h e in i - 
sphere this change 
lakes ]il;ir(' dur- 
ing February, and 
for this rea.son 




FKI. 11. 



ClIOW.NS AS THEY APPEAR ON 
THE PLANT. 

the i'hrys;intheuiuni (lowers in Australia during the months 
of March and April. 

Having set foiiii these f.acts that climatic conditions 
arc iiistruniental in in'iiiging about this desired bud state. 
we must all consider our own locality and be governed ac- 
cordingly. 8onie of the experts secure liuds on some vari- 
eties as early as the tirst of August, and get magnificent 
itlooins therefrom. Doubtless they have solved the prob- 
lem, as far as they are concerned, but there are others not 
so favored. We doubt if those located in the middle states 
where the heat continues through the month of August and 
sometimes into September, would find such an earl.v date 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



49 



practical, unless for some of the early varieties which nat- 
urally set early buds. 

In this locality (Southern Michigan) best results are 
from buds takeu August 25th, or soon after, with the excep- 
tion of a few kinds, which are single unless earlier buds are 
secured. Many varieties that develop to the highest de- 
gree on the Atlantic and Pacific coasts from early August 
buds refuse to expand properly under more arid condi- 
tions. 

As soon as the new varieties are brought under our 

care we make a 
I'ccord of the date 
of disbudding, se- 
lecting a few of 
tiie earliest, a n d 
repeating this oi)- 
eration as far as 
] possible every five 
days, up to tlie 
middle of Septem- 
l»er. When the 
liowers are cut we 
make a record of 
best d a t e s. and 
the next year we 
are in a fair jmsi- 
tion to know just 
what course to 
FIG. 12. CKOWN WHEN RESERVED. follow. Thcse rcc- 
ords are made on tree labels and attached to the plant. 

• Takiuy the Buds — Taking the buds is an old and ob- 
scure term which simply means selecting the best and re- 
moving all others. There are two forms of buds : Crown 
and Terminal. The Crown is formed first and if removed 




50 



IMITU'S (IIKY.SA.XTIIKMI.M MANUAL 



tlie lateral .growths which siirrouiid it will make Imds later. 
The Terminal hud is the termination of the final growth 
and must be retained as there are no buds to follow. They 
have also l)een termed as follows : A Crown hud is sur- 
rounded by vegetative shoots and not by other buds. A 
Terminal Imd is surrounded by otlier liuds and not by vege- 
tative shoots. 

On ]ilnnts that liave been planted early the crown buds 
often become apparent early in August. See Fig. 12. If 
these are removed the adjacent vegtative growths push 
forward and will set another bud which is generally a crown 
and often termed "second crown," late in August or 1st of 
Sei»teniber ; much depending upon climatic conditions and 
treatment of tlie plant. If this bud is removed the lateral 

growths will ])ush 
forward, and in 
tlie course of a few 
w<'eks develo]) a 
c luster of l)uds 
wliicji are termi- 
nal or final, as 
this completes the 

planfs g r o w i h. 
See Fig. 13. 

The chief mer- 
its of tlie crown 
buds ai'e size and 
multiidication of 
[iota Is. .Many of 
tlie foreign varie- 
ties, particularly 
tliose raised in 

Fia. 13. LATEKAL HETAINKD FOR LATER BUB. K U g 1 a U d, a r e 

worthless from late buds, jiroducing liowcrs with open cen- 




EXIIIHITION BLOOMS 



51 



tors, and in many cases so uiul-Li so that they conid be classi- 
fied as single. 

The tendency of crown buds is towards loss in color 
and I'oliage. Varieties that produce pink or red flowers 
from terminal buds are inclined to l»e white or bronze from 
crown?. 

r.oui;-. bare 
stems are due to 
selection of early 
crown buds. This 
defect can be re- 
duced to some ex- 
tent by firming 
the soil until it is 
very h a r d, thus 
checking the 
growth without 
impairing the 
quality of the 
fiowers'. 

It has been 
suggested that the 
term "single bud" 
be applied to the 
o n e Iv n o w n a s 
crown ;iiid "clus- 
ter bud" to the one 
Fiii. 14. TERMINALS AS THEY APPEAR. kuowu as termi- 
nal. We can see no objection to using these terms and thus 
may be able to convey our ideas to the amateur more clearly. 
Fig. 11 shows the crown bud as they appear on the 
plant with tlie lateral growths. If we decide to save the 
crown bud, I'emove all laterals so it will appear like Fig. 12, 
and if a later bud is preferred remove the crown and all 




SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



laterals luit one. as sliown in Fig. IIJ. The lateral retained 
will give a bud later. It may be a second crown or terminal, 
depending largely upon the date of this operation. 

After the lateral growtlis are removed, the energy of 
the plant will lie directed to the bud which begins to ex- 
pand. Should tlie liuds :ip]iear a few days too early, remove 
tlie laterals gradually, day l»y day, completing the operation 
on llie liest date. In this way the buds may be held in 
check without injury; although would uot advise retarding 
them inugcr tlian eight or ten days. 

When terminal 

((Muster bud) is 
(1 c s i r e d remove 
the crown, allow- 
ing one of the lat- 
e r a 1 g r o w t li s 
wliich surround it 
to remain. In tlie 
course of a few 
weeks this growth 
will have attained 
some length and 
sliow a cluster of 
Iiuds. When well 
advanced it will 
l)e noticed that 
there is one at the 
apex/ of the stem 
and one at each of 
the leaf axils, as 
sJKiwu in Figure 

FKi. l.">. TKKMIXAL AFTKK I5KIX(i nrSIU'lH )i;i). 1^- 

i I' liie c<'nter or apex bud apjienrs perfect, re- 
tiiin it iiy i-enioving iill othei's with the tluunb and finger. 




EXHTDITION BLOOMS 



53 



This operation is termed •'disl)U(klinii"' and should be done 
as soon as buds are of sutficicnt size to do the worlc without 
injuring the one retaiiUMl. Sliouhl tlie center one be im- 
perfect or injured from any cause, save the next liest. See 
Fi;; 15. 

The ^Yhole subject of buds resolves itself into a few 
simple facts which each grower must take into consider- 
ation before taking any decisive steps, viz. : climatic con- 




no. 10. SHOWING THE EFFECT OF EARLY AND LATE BUDS 
UPON TIIK FORM AND COLOR. 

ditions. date of the exhibition, classes in which they are 
to compete, and iieculiarities of the varieties under con- 
sideration. 

The operation of disbudding should be contined to the 
early hours of the day as far as possible, at which 
time the growth is more brittle and can lie easily removed 



54 .smith's ciii!Vsa.\tiik,mum manual 

with tliuinb and linger. As soon as the buds are formed, 
lateral gro\Yth I'voni the leaf axils push forward. These 
should be removed as fast as they appear, or the bud 
will be robbed of its nourislnnont wliii-li lias been previously 
provided. 

StappiiHi — Most of the exliibition growers of England 
have given considerable thought to what they term "tim- 
ing" the buds, that is, having the liowers in perfection 
at a certain date. To this end they resort to stopping many 
varieties. The oliject is to force tiowers at an earlier 
date than they would naturally mature if allowed to make 
a natural break. Tliis system lias not been practiced in 
this country to any great extent, altliongh it may be 
wortliy of consideration as comjietition grows keener. 

Record of Opoitlioiix — In a work where there are so 
many conditions which have influence uiion tlie result, it is 
very important that each o])erator keeji a fairly complete 
record of quantity and quality of fertilizers, and when 
applied, height of i)lants at maturity, date of bud, and 
general comments as to merit. Such records are in- 
valuable for future reference. 

Such details as watering, spraying, airing and shading 
are fully defined in the chapter devoted to conunercial 
flowers. 

Fvcdinii — This operation is also fullv treated in the pre- 
ceding chapter. It is inqmssible to give explicit directions as 
all depends upon the condition under which the plants are 
grown and for this reason it is dfficult to impart this 
knowledge to others with any degree of accuracy. 

The chrysanthemum, unlike most jilants grown un- 
der glass, has its season of growth and its season of flow- 
ering, hence our object is to i>roduce good, healthy growth 
and concentrate all energies to the development of the 
flower. Some varieties will stand nuicli more food than 



KxmniTio.N r.i.()().\;s oo 

others and iirufit tlRTcby. To reach the acme with all 
varieties, the grower must be familiar witli the special 
requirements of each, knowing when to stop feeding this 
variety and increase the application upon another. 

It is but a step from success to failure, and so it is 
in these days of close competition, the expert wins out 
in one <-lass and his opponent defeats him in the next; 
each having brought their exhibits to tiie highest degree 
of perfection in one case, and a trifle f.aulty in the other. 





BUJ) I'liol'KHLV KXl'AM)- 
INO. 



IS. 



BUDS i)isTnirri:;u from exces- 

SIVU FOOD. 



56 



SMITH S CIIHVSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



Feeding is generally continued until the buds be- 
gin to l)urst and sbow eolor, and some growers do not 
discontinue until tbe tlowers are half developed. But if 
such a course is followed we would advise diluting the 
application to one-half the strength used when the plants 




FIG. v.). 



BUDS lU.ASTKl) liV THE i:SK OF TOO STRONG FEK- 
TH.IZER.S. 



are in an active growing state. We must remember that 
after buds are formed, tln^ growth, so far as the plant is 
concerned, is at an end. and whatever we a]ipl.v in the 
way of food is immediately taken to the parts which 
are now being constructed, namely the petals. 

At this stage of development the folia.i:e on healthy 
plants will 1)0 dark green and glossy, which is due to the 
high living, but is not indicative of excessive feed: unless 
the leaves are curling Iiadly and very brittle. Tender such 
conditions caution is advisable. The mastery of this im- 
portant detail can only be gained by the closest observa- 



EXHIJ5ITION liLOOMS .jT 

tioii, leariiinix to know the need by iippeai-aiice of the 
growth. 

It is no great credit to stage a wiiiiiiug dozen it Iiuii- 
dreds liave been ruined to secure this "survival of tlie fit- 
test," it is high average that denotes accomplishment in 
this art. 

Pot ^y^tcm — Growing to maturity in pots luis sDnic 
advantages especially with respect to feeding as the roots 
are more closely confined, each variety can be treated as to 
its specific needs and again the small quantity of earth to 
which the roots are restricted permits of more frequent 
application of liquid fertilizers. 

As soon as the plants in small pots need shifting it 
should be given immediate attention and with each shift 
a soil of a coarser nature should be used. Such material 
is usually availal)lo when plenty of sod compost is at 
hand. 

The shifting continues until the flowering size 
is reached which are generally 8" in diameter. When the 
cuttings are struck in February this final potting takes 
place early in .Tune and liberal drainage should be pro- 
vided by the use of broken pots and fibrous parts of sod. 
Tamping it very firm with a blunt stick. As soon as they 
reach the flowering size they are placed aiiout 12 inches 
apart each way on the benches that have previously had 
an inch covering of coal ashes or sand to assist in re- 
taining moisture. After providing a system for tying. Ihc 
same details as given in the bench system will be ade- 
quate if given close and constant attention. 



CHAPTJJJi IX. 



BLOOMS tlKOWN OLT-OF-DOOi{S=' 



If is not to 1)0 prosunicd that siioooss can lie achieved 
ill ('.\liii)iti(iii lilooiiis ur'twii out-of-dooi's. \\iiero very 
luld weather (•rooi)s into tlic hip of Antuniu, or severe 
frosts and freezing; weatlier may be exi»ected during the 
nionfh of Xovciiiiicr. tlierel'ore. it slionhl liardly lie 
attempted in otlier tlian tlie soutliern states. Tlie best 
location in the uardeu for tliis pnrpose should be one 
protected as much as ]iossilile from storms, blowinji rains 
atid winds, and all the better if a spot .'tO to 40 feet square 
can he selected, and a r.-t'oot close board fence built all 
around. 

It is a mistalo' to set out iilaids for this jmriiose earlier 
tliaii May, and even as late as June, altlionujli many i^row- 
ers are in the habit of comniencing earlier. The results 
tliey have at lijooming time are great tall jilants. inclined to 
lie spiiKlliiig and not of tjiat sturdy. stocl<y nature which 
invariably produces the better blooms. P.esides th(\v have 
worked a moiitli or more at their plants that is wholly un- 
necessary. 

Soil should be of a stiff rather than loam.v character, 
lilier.illy fei'tilized with manure from the cow lot, which will 
iiiak(^ it sunicieiitly ridi and ]iorous foi' a beginning. Beds 
sliould bo ]iarallcl. tlircc feet wide, witli two-foot walks 
l:ct\\('i'ii and r;iis<'d six in-hcs. 1li;it draiiia;.c U';r/ be liad at 
all times. It is well to lio\ in the licds with boai'ds six 
inches wide, and use a few indies of gra\'el for flic w;ilk's 
between the beds. Two rows of plants 112 inches apart in the 



*S. .T. Mitchell, Houston. Texas, who has devoted much 
time and attention to tlie chrysanthemum, particula rlv the 
sub.iect of exhibitin.t;' and jud^ins, ha.s kindlx- sm>idic<l the 
foreproins' article. 



BLOOMS GROWN OUT-OF-DOORS 59 

rows are proper distances for setting out in the beds. Get 
them straight and uniform, and liave a few surplus plants 
in case any should die or fail to start off properly, tliat 
the rank and file may he in no instance broken. 

Do not use too many varieties, and have at least a row 
of each kind, selecting those in preference that have been 
prize takers at the prinrii)al flower shows. A plant will 
make three exhibition blooms of as good quality if well 
fertilized as it will one, so after pinching off the end when 
the plant is 12 inches Iiigh. allow hut three well selected 
limbs to grow, and no more during the entire life of the 
plant, with the oliject of one bloom to the limb, or three to 
each plant. The best means of staking and tying is the 
wire fence method. Place stout stakes as tall as the plants 
will grow, eight or ten feet apart in the row. stretch wire, 
fence-fashion, to which the i)lants are tied and repeat this 
operation as often as required. 

Never allow the beds to become dry, Init water !iiid 
spray the plants each day after sundown, and during August 
sprinkle with bone-meal around the roots of the plants and 
give a two-inch top-dressing of well rotted manure from the 
cow lot. The idea sliould be to cause the roots to grow 
laterally rather tiinn (lownw;ird. lience a great depth in the 
beds is nnnecessarv. 

Liquid fertilizers made iiliout the strength of weak tea 
from hen, sheep and cow manure is liest. and will contain 
all the chemical ingredients that tlie iilants will i'(^(|uire. 
This liduid fertili/ing sJKMild cniiinicnc(> iiVont Scpl<'nilicr 
1st, and 10 days later tlie first setting of flowering bmls will 
appeav. 

When buds show color sfoj) all fertilizing .'iiid give 
soft water. A covering of canvas laid on slojiing rafters 
should lie given the l>eds to ]>rotect the opening blooms 
from rain or dust, in fact not a (lro]i of water should be 



GO f^.MlTIl's ( ilRVSAXTllEMUM MANUAL 

allowed to coiue in contact with a bloom at any tinio, and 
^rcat care shonld be used in sjii-ayinK. 

Disbudding will have to be closely attended to, allowing 
lint (»no (the most in'omisini;) to each limb, and usually the 
terminal bud is chosi'n for best results. The crown or 
early center bud is best lor some varieties, but experience 
will have to lie tlie teacher. Watch for insects closely; 
caterpillars, apiiis, mealy bugs and corythuca that huddle 
OH the under side of the leaves. Keep on the lookout for 
Ihoe enemies, and at the first indication appl.v tobacco tea 
ov sirong soapsuds to prevent theii' getting a strong 
loolhold. 

Do not expect blooms grown oul-of-doors to be quite as 
nice as those with greenhouse j>rotection. where these ele- 
ments can be more surely controlled. TLie grower should 
never attempt exhibition blooms of any character if he is 
not preiiared to devott» time eacii day t(/ them, and under 
no circumstances allow the slightest procrastination or 
neglect. The ]>lants in time will rei^ay most handsomely. 

A iistraliaii }f< Iliad — The conditions in the southern 
states are similar to those of Australia, admitting of the 
flowering of chrysanthenuuns out-of-dooi's. Thinking that the 
methods employed there ma.v be of service to southern 
growers we give the following suggestions b.v G. Brun- 
ning & Sons. Australia. It should be taken into consider- 
ation tiiat their si>ring is our fall: so that where the month 
is specilied we should add six months. This would make 
Septemlicr. ^Farcli. or the lU'oper time to begin propogation. 
And again, where it refers to the liuds appearing in Feb- 
ruary, we sliould substitute August. 

"Stand the <ild plants of the previous season in some 
open, aii'y jiosition to break. From these suitable cut- 
tings of about three inches in length are taken in Sep- 
temlter (March). After removal of some of the low^er leaves 



BLOOMS GROWN OUT-OF-DOORS 61 

the cuttiugs are iuserted singly in two or three-inch pots 
filled with light, open soil and plunged in sand in a close 
glass frame. The only attention required until they are 
rooted being an occasional watering or sprinkling and ven- 
tilation for an hour or two in the morning. 

"When the plants are fairly established and hardened 
off, repot into 5-inch pots, using a good open soil and well 
drained pots. The soil need not be too rich as only a 
moderate growth is desirable at the present stage. Pinch 
out the leading shoot at this time, thus causing the side 
buds to break and furnish the necessary leading growth. 
The plants are plunged in sand in an open sunny position 
and progress rapidly, so that by the second week in No- 
vember (May) they are ready for 7-inch pots, when a little 
richer soil than previously used can be substituted, in 
which they may remain until the first week in .Tanuary 
(July). 

"Now, instead of removing them into larger pots, break 
n good sized hole in the bottom of the pot in which they 
now are and plunge to the rim in a well drained and shel- 
tered bed. placing some good prepared soil under them, 
(such as a mixture of heavy loam, peat, sand and manure) 
say in the following proportions : i/J heavy loam, i^ peat. 
14 sand and ^ horse droppings; adding some crushed 
bones, wood ashes and a little soot. Should heavy loam 
not be procurable clay may be used as a substitute. 

"By this method an opportunity is afforded them with 
liquid manure much easier and often than could be done if 
planted out in the open ground, and the plants will not 
attain such a height, jn-ovidod tboy are firmly potted when 
shifted into the 7-inch pots. 

"The only liquid manure we would advocate is made by 
filling a small bag with about 28 lbs. of fresh cow dung, 
adding a little soot (about 4-inch pot full) placing same in 



62 



SMITHS ClIinsANl'lIlM CM MAMAl, 



a tub contiiiiiiiiu ll(t pi lions of water, leaving it to stand 
three or tonr days liel'ore usini;. Dilute i j pint ot this mix- 
ture to H gallons of water. lienew this iireparation every 
two or three weeks. This manure may be .uiven from the 
sei-oud week in .7ainiai\\' (.Inly I. not oftenor than once a 




FUi. 20. SIIKT.TKU OF SNUG HARBOR. 



week till the hnds are taken, as over niannrinii has a ten- 
dency toward i>romotinu' blind buds and in their later 
sta.iies causing blooms to dam|)." 

S}i('ll< r or !^ini<i lliiiixir — \t the aiijiroai'h of cool nights 
protection will l)e ncress.iry where the Howei's are to be 
perfected out-of-dooi-s. The jilan t^enerally ado]ited is to 
build a li.iiht framework upon which cloth is stretched and 



HI.OOMS ClIOWX <)l r-()K-ll!K)I!S 63 

fastened to form a roof. For the sides a cloth eurtain 
should be provided and fastened in such a manner that it 
may be rolled up from the bottom to admit air on pleasant 
days. If the plants are situated next to a building or tight 
board fence this will answer for one side of the enclosure 
to which the framework may be attached. See Fig. 20. 



CHArTER X. 



Apliis — The bhu-k and yreou aphis infest rlirysaiitlu'- 
nnnns in all stayes ol' their development and are very per- 
sistent in their depredations. 

The best remedy for the amateur who grow their 
plants out-of-doors is to apply one of the several forms 
of tobacco extract such as Xico-Fume. To-Bak-Ine. etc., 
which can be purciiased of any of the large supply houses 
in quantities to suit the need with directions for its use. 
This is diluted and applied with a spray pump. Hammonds 
Thrip Juice No. 2 recommended for Thrip will keep the 
plants very clean and is applied the same way. 

Tobacco dust is often useful when only a few plants 
are effected, and is applied dry after the foliage has been 
wet so it will adhere. 

Those who devote a considerable area to chrysanthe- 
mums under glass will rind an easier way to eradicate 
aphis is by the use of tol)acco stems as a fumigant or l>y 
using Hydrocyanic Acid Gas. 

If tobacco stems are used it is necessary to dampen 
them a few hours ahead so they will burn slowly and 
prevent blazing, which generates heat and gas that ofteu 
burns the foliage. Some prefer tobacco dust cr a manufac- 
tured article called Tobacco Punk wliicli is strips of paper 
saturated with nicotine. Both of these burn slowly and are 
very satisfactory. 

In fumigating with tobacco there is less danger of burn- 
ing the tender tijis if the foliage is wet and with Cyanide 
it should be dry. so avoid spraying late in the day it is to 
be used. 



65 



We prefer Cyanide to tobacco fumigation being more 
powerful and lasting in its effect. There are two forms 
of Cyanide, the potassium and the sodium, both are deadly 
poison, either in the crystal or liquid form, as well as the 
gas emitted when brought in contact with sulphuric acid. 
The highest grades of Cyanide are the l)est for this pur- 
pose and as TOO parts of Sodium Cyanide are as efficient 
as 120 parts of Potassium Cyanide, we prefer the former. 
The quantity used ia based upon the cubic contents of 
the house, which is practically 1 oz. to each five or six 
hundred cubic feet. 

A house .''.OxlOO feet with average height of 8 feet 
will contain 24,000 cubic feet of space. 

For such houses we use four small stone jars putting 
07,. of water and two oz. of Sulphuric Acid in each 
and place them on the walks at as nearly equal inter- 
vals as possible so that the gas will reach all parts of the 
house. 

One oiuice of Cyanide is weighed out, wrapped in tis- 
sue paper and placed beside each jar. The ventilators and 
other outside openings are closed so all is in readiness. 
Two persons beginning at the end of the houses farthest 
from the door or exit, drop the Cyanide into the jar passing 
rapidly to the next and out of the house, locking the dooi*. 
Those who have not used the deadly poison should be very 
careful both in handling it and after it has come in con- 
tact with the acid. The gas is as transparent and color- 
less as the air. but wlien inhaled it is death to all ani- 
mal life. Never luidertake to investigate its action or 
re-enter the house for three hours after its installation. 
Also see that the houses are locked to protect persons who 
are unaware of the danger. 

'Red RpliJrrs — The most difficult insect we have to con- 
tend with under glass is the red spider, which is very 



Wi SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

iiiiiuite. Scarcely (liscernable by the naked eye, but if al- 
lowed lo in> iinclieeked will become very numerous, forming 
a fine weli about the leaves and buds. It is generally first 
detected on the underside of the leaves where they are 
not dislodged by spraying. Dry, hot air is most congenial 
to their welfare and after these conditions have been 
brought about by turning on heat, houses have been ruined 
which were ai)i)arently clean and gave great promise early 
in tlie season. 

The liest remedy known is water, which should lie 
aitjilied in the form of a spray with as nuicli force as possilde 
to destroy the web and dislodge them. It is important that 
it be applied to the under as well as the upper side of the 
foliage. Thorough and repeated applications are the onl.v 
source of relief. 

77////W — These like the foregoing are very small, the 
adults being scarcely a 1-lG of an inch in length, of a 
grayish white and very slender or hair like in fact they 
look very much like clippings of white or gray hair. Their 
presence is first indicated l»y slightly brown discoloration 
between the midribs on the under side of leaves and when 
allowed to go uncliecked the whole undersurface will have 
a decided brown cast, eventually extending to all )iarts 
of the jtlant including the buds and blooms. Spraying with 
considerabb^ foi-ce will dislodge them to some extent. 
The best remedy we know of is Hammond's Thrip .Tuice 
No. - apjilicd with a sjiray innn]! at the rate of 1 part to 
40 parts of watei'. The application should be thorough, 
extending to both upper and under side of the leaves and 
we prefer doing this toward night or on cloudy days as a 
precaution against burning the foliage. This remed.\- is 
also effective upon Red R]iiders and Aphis. 

Leaf Tjicr. (Pldycaenia ferrugnlis.) From Fig. 21 it 
will be seen there arc three stages or forms of life durini: 



67 



Its existence. The first is the larvae or worm, which is light 
greeu and feeds usually upon the underside of the leaves, 
leaving the epidermis or sldu lilce upper surface. Its habit 
of drawing two large leaves together or rolling the edge 
under hy means of a fine silky web is whence it derives its 
common name leaf tyer. As the worm attains full size about 
lo inch long, it seeks a secluded place where it changes 
to the second stage or chrvsolis form and is about K inch 




FIG. 21. LEAF TYER, SHOWING THE LARVAE, 
CHRVSOLIS AND MOTH STAGES. 



long with a brown covering. In a few days this ehrysolis 
breaks its covering and in this transformation is provided 
with wings, then being in the third or mature nmth state. 
With these wings it is enabled to go to other plants or houses 
and deposit eggs which soon become larv;i'. Such rcmeilics 
as paris greeu, arsenate of lead are effective if it were, 
possible to apply to the underside of the leaves, but we 
find such applications are not sufficiently vigorous in their 
action to keep them in check. Tobacco and cyanide fumes 
have no effect. 

During the [iropagating season, .lanunry t i .fnlv, v.c 
turn our attention to the moth, using a iiiece of 
screen wire SxlO" attached to a stick for a liandle 
the same as a fly swatter and follow tlie hose every day 
striking them as they rise. At planting time tlie plants 
are cleaned of all worms before placing on the benches. 
Throughout the growing season the stock is gone over 



cs 



S.MITII S niliYSANTHEiM I .M MAMAL 



every few days and all distiiiiired fuliasie is carefully 
examined for this larvae. They are exceedingly persistent 
in uiaintainin:; a foothold when once established and no one 
shonld allow tlieni to go unchecked, thinking they will dis- 
appear when the houses are cleaned up. This is not the 
case as we have seen the larv;e so numerous as to en- 
tirely devour the foliage of stock plants. 

RlcalU lilt;/ — As connnonly known it is a white, mealy, 
downy looking insect. Generally it does not infest chrysan- 
themums to any extent, hut we have seen cases where they 
were more or less troublesome. If not very numerous they 
may lie hand-picked. When this is impractical, alcohol 
diluted one-half and applied with a brush or atomizer will 
destroy them without injuring tlie foliage. 

^'y•f/^■^•//r</*/"■/■.s■ ;ire sometimes 
troublesome, devouring the ten- 
der leaves and stems, and the 
iiest i-emedy is hand-picking, 
wliieh should be done as early in 
llie morning as convenient, when 
they are more docile and easily 
e;iugl:t. Shonld they be very 
abundant, an application of Paris 
<;reen may be given. Tare should 
be taken not to apjily too free- 
ly oi- it will burn the fol- 
iage. 

A safe rule is 1 part Paris Green to 1.')0 parts air 
slacked lime which should be thoroughly mixed. 

Tarnished Plant Biut (Lygns Pratensisi is a great 
hindrance and often causes total failure to idants grown 
in the open Itorder. See Fig. 22. They are brought into 
the greenhouse on various idants, like carnations and ger- 
aniums, and inuuediately find n favorable feeding ground 




FIG 22 TARNISH En 
PLANT RUG. 



69 



upon the chrysautbemum. This destructive bug procures its 
food by thrusting its proboscis into the tender growths, ex- 
tracting the sap, thus causing the tips to flag, which may 
be considered evidence of their presence. In the young 
state they are of a yellowish green color and seem to con- 
fine their depredations to the apex of the stem and soon 
destroy the center. 




FIG. 23. DEPREDATIONS OF THE TARNISHED PLANT 
BRANCH SHOWING MASS OF BLIND GROWTH. 



As soon as the lateral growths push forward they take 
to these, and thus the operation is repeated until the plant 
often becomes a mass of stunted growth. See Fig. 23. 

The adults are yellowish brown, about 3-10 of an inch 
in length, and will continue their destructive work upon 



lO SMITHS CIIKYSANTIIEMUM MANUAL 

niiy part of the plant or liower that is sott and al)iHidaut 
with sai). They puncture with such violence as to distort 
the growth and I'uin pmniising buds, and later on dciai e 
the ])etals ot e.xiianding tlowers. The pest is known in 
nearly all jiarts of the United States, lieing more or less 
destructive to many otiier plants, such as asters, goldenrod 
and suntloucM's. and they are very jiartial to carnation 
l)i(.».m>-. 

1 land-picl\ing is tlie liest remed,\' we iia\e found, and 
whoever attem|its to catch any of these little intruders must 
he alei't indeed. The adults will Hy at the lirst intimation 
of your jiresence and the young either hide under the leaves 
or drop to the lower jiart nf the plant. 

Ciiriitli inn d'ossi/iii is aiiout the size of a full grown 
aphis, color, a dirty gra.v, having a wooll.v appearance. It 
is more oi' less trotiblesome throughout southern states, 
hut is little known in the north, although it has lieeu re- 
|)orted in man.\' localities. Its habit is sinnlar to the red 
spidei' fee<ling ujion liie under side of the foliage. Tt is 
I'ejiorted as being ver.\' destrnct Inc. and the affecti'd leaves 
curl and die. When disturbed ijiey lly to the ground and 
innnediately return to the jihints by climbing uji the stems 
and are soon re-established. The liesi remedy is weak 
kerosene ennilsion. and this slmuld be apiilied to the umler 
side of the leaves to be most effective. 

Oiiih Wnnii — The common white grub so luwalent !n 
meadows is nften c;irted into the house with tlie soil. The 
first indication of their jn-esence is. Die jtlant will begin to 
wilt and eventually di(\ They harbor in tlie soil and feed 
ujion the roots .-ind sjiould be Inuded nut and 1<illed. 

Cut Wnrin -This dark-colored worm, which sometimes 
attains two inches in length, burrows in the gromid and at 
night feeds upon the I'oli.age of the iilant, ^'enerally going 
to the tender leaves at (he to]). Owing to their nocturnal 
habits thev ai'e easier cauLrht at night. 



71 



Lady Bird (Cotx-iuella. ) — Tliis little Iseetle v;u-ies iii 
size and color, being from '4 to .^^ uf an inch in length in 
the adult form and nearly round. Connnonly red with 
black spots, varying in size and number. 

In the larvae state they are i,^ inch long, color, Iduisli- 
gray, more or less marked with yellow and black spots. 
At a certain stage of development they fasten themselves to 




FIG. 24. 



LACE-WIA'UEl) FI.Y. SHOWING LARVAE AND MATIJKE 
STAGES. 



the under side of the leaves and in a day or so shed their 
larvae coat and are thus transformed to the winged or 
mature state. In all stages they feed upon the aphis but 
are more active and greedy when young. They are also 
known in this country as lady bug and should never be 
molested, as their persistent hostility to the aphis is very 
beneficial. 

Lace-Wiiif/cd Fly or Goldencyc ( Crysopa Oculata.) — 
This fly which in the mature state, is a peculiar shade of 
light green, approaching opalescent tints, entirely except 
its golden eyes. It is about one incli in length and its large 
wings are reticulated with a network of ''ilis to strengthen 
.the thin and transparent tissues. This lace-like reticula- 
tion is the source of its common name "lace wing." The 
larvae is one-half inch long and nearly or quite black in 

colOi*. 



72 SMITH S (lIinSA.NTlIK.M I'M MAIS'UAL 

lu the larvae state it will be seeu traversing the young 
shoots and leaves where the aphis are usually most abund- 
ant. When within reach it seizes its prey with two horny, 
jaw-like appendages to hold it secure and then thrusts 
its proboscis, or bill, into the aphis body extracting the 
juice the same as the mosquito operates, when the lifeless 
shell is released and the larvae proceeds to its next vic- 
tim. 

<')iri/,s(iiitliviniiin Fly — This insect closely resembles our 
honey-bee, although a trifle larger. When on the wing it 
makes a similar humming sound but can be handled with 
imi)unity. as it cannot sting. It makes its apearance with 
tlio tirst chrysanthemum flowers and disappears at the 
close of the flowering season. 

It cannot be considered a foe or friend, its sole object 
being to gather bee-bread fi-om the more single flowers. It 
lias been used for the purpose of raising seed, being an ex- 
cellent agent in fertilizing flowers, as it continually roams 
from one flower to another. Seed thus obtained cannot be 
considered very valuable, inasmuch as they never visit 
flowers that are fully double and the results thus detained 
would be degenerative rather than progressive. 



CHAPTER XI. 



DISEASES 



Rust is not so prevalent in tliis conntry as in England 
from the fact our atmospliere is dryer. It makes itself ap- 
parent with the approach of cool nights and is generally 
augmented hy excessive moisture. 

H. .J. Jones, Lewisham, England, describes this fun- 
gus in the following comprehensive manner. "It appears 
the fungus originates in the tissue of the leaf, and is mostly 
confined to the under side, although there are many in- 
stances in which pustules appear on the upper surface of 
the leaf. A pustule, simply described, is a little pimple 
which bursts, exposing a darlv brown dust, at maturity. 
This brown dust is none other than liberated spores which 
drop out of the pustule, and fall on, or come into contact 
with the chrysanthemum foliage, and when this is in a moist 
condition it quickly grows and very speedily developes a 
germ tube which very soon finds its way into the tissue of 
the leaf, and after a time repeats itself. 

"There are many remedies given, such as bordeaux 
mixture, and ammonical solution, as well as other prepared 
compounds. These, doubtless, are more or less effective. 
but we can hardly expect a permanent cure from their iise 
iinless we maintain conditions that are unfavorable to the 
development of new spores." 

A few years ago the carnation rust which grows and 
reproduces itself in the same maimer, and as far as we 
know is identical, caused great anxiety among carnation- 
ists, who feared its prevalence would gain such a foothold 
as to be ruinous. Experience has taught them to remove 
the cause or conditions under which it develops rapidly. 



74 smith's < hrvsanthemum manual. 

To this end they lioust* the plants early, spray only on 
bright nioriiings and maintain a dry and buoyant atnios- 
phero as tar as possilile. 

It rhrysanUicnnnii growers will take the same precau- 
tions there is little tear ot tlie disease l)eeomiiig wide-spread, 
or doing great damage. ( >ver-crowding the plants so that 
the foliage does not diy ott ([uickly. indiscriminate si)ray- 
ing. particularly wiien ajiiilied late in the day in the au- 
tumn months, and laek ot air should he strongly guarded 
againsf. 

In aggravated cases it would l>e well to try the follow- 
ing remedy, given by W. Wells. Kedhill. England, in his 
new work Just issued, "The ('ulture of the Chr.vsantliemum." 

"Spray every cutting or plant once a fortnight — from 
the day the cuttings are inserted or the old plants are cut 
d(twn with about a wineglass full of iiaratline (kerosene) 
mixed with one gallon of water, using an Abol syringe with 
tlie sjiray nozzle. Tf the solution can he kept thorouglily 
mixed, double the strength may be emjiloyed. Then from 
July 1st spray tlie under jiarf of the foliage with a dressing 
comjiosed of the following ingredients: h:ilf-pound each of 
suli)hur, soft soap, soot, and lime. The lot should he 
boiled for lialf :ui hour in one ijallon of water: a half pint 
of iiai'aliine should then be added and the mixtuiv allowed 
to simmer for a miinite or so. care being taken to prevent 
it from boiling over. The dressing should be allowed to 
stand until it gets clear. ;nid may be ke]it in bottles. A 
quarter of a ]iint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of 
wat(U\ Tf. however, the fmigus is very I>ad and has ob- 
tained a hold on tlu^ plant, double str(Migtli can be used 
without injuring the chrysanthemum." 

Leaf N'/)o^— With this fungus (Seiitoria riirysanthenn 
E and D) the sjiore beai'ing cavities are imbedded in tho 
leaf tissue, and as they mature the spores ooze out of these 



DISEASES 75 

cavities aud tluis spread tlie disease. They may he Icilled 
by applying Bordeaux mixture or some similar fungicide. 
Another fungus disease wiiieh often attaelcs the elirysantlie- 
mum is known as ('lyndrosiH)rium Chrysantliemi. It is a 
more rajtid grower tlian tlie Sejitoria and tlie iihiuts at- 
fected by it are often so stri<'ken down as to be unable to 
make any blooms. 

The leaves of the affected [ilants begin to roll uii, the 
outer edges turning under and tliis condition becomes so 
apijarent that even the inexperienced grower will know at a 
glance that something is wrong. Some varieties seem to be 
strong enough to withstand this fungus, hence in nearly 
every case where the writer has known its presence it has 
confined itself to certain varieties and very often those 
growing adjacent were not affected in the least. 

The best remedies are liordeaux and ammonium 
mixtures. 

The foregoing is an abridged article on leaf spot by 
Prof. Byron D. Halstead appearing in American Chrysau- 
thenunn Annual. 

Borden ii.v Mi. it lire. 

Copper sulphate ("> pounds 

Quicklime 4 pounds 

Water 40 gallons 

Dissolve the co]ti)er sulphate by putting it in a bag of 
coarse cloth and hanging this in a vessel holding at least 
four gallons, so that it is Just covered by the water. TJse 
an earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal 
amount of water. Then mix the two and add enough water 
to make 40 gallons. It is then ready for innncdiate use. 
Ariimouiiicdl (^opprr (Utrhonntc. 

Copper carbonate 1 oz. 

Ammonia ... .enough to dissolve tlie co])per 
Water gallons 



7t; SMITH S CIIHVSA>'TIIKMLM MANUAL 

Till' copper carbonate is best dissolved in large bottles 
where it will keep indetliiitely. and it slioub] be dihited with 
water as reiiuired. 

Mildrir — A connnon name applied t<> several I'oruis of 
microscopic t'nn.t^i. The one alfcctin;;- the chrysanllieunnn 
is white an<l forms a coat over the leaves and tender shoots 
and is cansed by a snddcn check of some nature. 

Sulphur in some form is the accepted remedy, being 
a]iplied as dust directly to the leaves, ov by mixing equal 
l>arts of sulphur and air slacked lime, adding water until 
the consistency of paste and painting the steam pipes. The 
formula given by W. Wells for rust is re<'onunended for 
mildew and doulitless is effective. 

Potassium Sulphide is also highly i-cconuncudcd for 
mildew an<l rust, aiijilied to the affected parts at the rate 
of one oz. to two gallons of water. 

Many of the private gardeners consider a preparation 
known as grape dust an excellent preventative for mildew 
and otiier fungus diseases which is a])plied with a bellows or 
some otlier air lilowing device. 



CHAPTER XII. 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 



Before entering the details of this subject let us con- 
sider some of tlie natural conditions wliic h liave more or 
legs influence upon our results. Dame nature says the 
chrysanthemum shall be single and reproduce itself from 
seed, so in producing these marvelous flowers with almost 
countless petals we are woi-king in direct opposition to her 
laws. 

In some of our improved varieties we are prevented 
from making further improvements owing to the pistils or 
styles being abortive; and in others tlie staminate florets 
provide little or no pollen. 

In cross-fertilization the operator's desire is to im- 
prove the chief characteristics, such as color, size, form 
and fullness. It is beyond all human power to obtain 
exact results in uniting or mixing the colors of petals. 
Pollen of a white flower applied to a red may give red, 
white, or any intermediate shades which would be many 
varieties of pink. The union of red and yellow gives simi- 
lar results, producing red, yellow and all the intermediate 
shades of brown and tan. We have more assurance when 
varities of the same colors are crossed. Improvements in 
colors can only be attained by bearing in mind the laws of 
nature in making these unions. 

The chrysanthemum has a great tendency to revert to 
its antecedents. Hence it is we get many strangers when 
two of the same color are crossed. The variety, Mrs. J. .T. 
Glessner. yellow, came from Edward Hatch and Mrs. J. 
Jones, both white or nearly so. This seedling partook of 
the parentage of Ed. Hatch whicli was Gloriosnm. yellow, 
and Ada Spaulding, pink. 



7S SMITHS t'HKVSA.NTlIK.M IM MAMAL 

Fonii, size and I'ulliR'ss arc iiuprdvcil only by rareTul 
(•ousidci'alidii of these inialilicatiinis in varieties at our dis- 
posal. We are more ecrlaiii ^>\' ad\aiic('Uieut in the style of 
urowtii. sei'uriny tiio^e wliidi are (Iwart and sturdy by eon- 
tinin.i;' oiu' operations to sm-ji as [mssess tliese ijualities. 

Lar.ue and small I'oliaue can be pro(hired by using 
tlios(> havin.L;- these pccnliarilies. 

What governs the potency of the pistillate and stami- 
natc jjarent we cannot determine. We are dealing with 
minute affairs. The stiumia may scarcely have rea<-lied 
maturity when the pollen is api)lied, or the pollen may be 
jiassed its prime with the slignia at the height of develop- 
ment. These varied comlitions nia.\' have their influence 
upon establishing the char.-ictei' <d' the seedling. 

In selecting varieties tor this work the two classe.*? for 
consideration ar(> those for exhibition and connnercial use. 
In the former, size is lh(> most imiMtrtant factor if the other 
(lualifications are u]) to the av<'i'age. The connnercial 
grower requires stajde coloi's, and the jiurer the color the 
belter. Size, form, fullness .and style of gi'owth are im- 
portant and should be taken into consideration. 

Srcd I'hnits — Our experience leads us to believe that 
single stem plants in 4-inch pots grown naturally without 
an ahuiulanee of nourishmeid are best suited for this iiur- 
pose. They produce less r.-iy llorets. hence jiollen is easier 
to gather. The styles in (lowers thus treated seem to be in 
better coiulition, or at least more normal and jiroduce seed 
more freely. We have ai-rived at these deductions l)y en- 
deavoring to procure seed fi'om tlios(^ grown for exliibitions 
and in nearly every irase our efforts have been fruitless. 

IMants intended for seed raising should be staged in a 
dry, light house, and excessive moisture at the root«>! or in 

.Htmosjihere should lie a\oided. 

Frrtiliziiifi- Thf^ oiieration liegins when the flowers 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 



79 



arc half open by cuttiiiii the petals off close to the base with 

a ])air of scissors, until 
tlie styles are exposed 
See Fig. 25. 

Fig. 20 represents an 
enlarged ray and disc 
floret. No. 1 is n i)etal 
which furnishes the col- 
or. This is provided 
with a- style or pistil 
and when in condition 
or fully expanded is in 
proper condition to re- 
ceive the pollen which 
is applied to the upper 
surface, (P.) known as 
the stigma. The disc 
floret (TI.) also has a 
style. hut is pvo- 
vidcd with stamens, 
(D which furnish the 
jiollen. These should be 
i-emoved from the seed 
plant with the potnts of 
scissors to prevent self- 
fertilization. 

.Vfter the flower head 
has been trinuned select 
the desired flower for 

FIG. 25. FLOWER TRIMMED UE.XDV pollcU. I'USll .'isidc the 

EOB FERTiLizATTo.N. ray t'orcts or petals un- 

til the disc florets are in view. Collect the dust-like pollen 
on a camel's hair pencil or toothpick and apply to the 
stigmas of the flowers jireviously pri'pared. This com- 
pletes the oi)eration. 




80 



SMITHS CIIKYSANTIIEMUM MANUAL 



How lertilizntioii takus iihice is fully deseribed by Prof. 
Bontley in bis Manual of Botany: 

"Wben tlie iiollen falls upon tlie stigma its intine pro- 
trudes tlirougb one or more pores of tbe extine in the form 
of a delicate tube wbicli penetrates through the cells of the 
stigma, by the viscid secretions from which it is nourished. 
These pollen tubes continue to elongate by growth and pass 
down the conducting tissue of the canal of the stvle. and 




FIG. 2t; I. PISTILLATK FI.OHET. II. STAMIXATE FLORET. 
(A) Style — ( B) Stigma — (C) Slamens — (D) C)vary — (E)Seecl 

thus reach the ovary where the seed is formed." 

If a toothpiclv is used never use it for more than one 
kind of pollen. By allowing the camel's hair pencil to 
stand in an open mouth vial of alcohol a few minutes after 
using, it may when dry be used upon another variety with- 
out fear of tbe former operation affecting the present. 

Pollenizing should be done on bright, sunny days as far 
as iiossilde. In wet weather a dry. warm house can i»e 



SEEDLINGS AND SPOUTS 81 

Utilized and tlie woii^ coutimied oacli day, provided 
sufficient pollen is at hand. On bri^lit days pollen is gen- 
erally very abundant, and may be collected, stored in vials 
and labeled ready for use. If kept perfectly dry this pollen 
will retain its vitality throughout the chrysanthemum 
season. 

After fertilization give the plants only sufficient water to 
keep them from wilting. Always kee]i a record of the work, 
showing the parents of the seedlings. It will afford pleas- 
ure to know how a meritorious variety was produced, and 
may suggest possibilities along other lines. 

Seeds ripen in five or six weeks. Those fertilized early 
in the season give the greatest nunibei' of seeds, doubtless 
due to moi-e favorable weather at that time. Do not antici- 
pate super-abundance of seed. The crosses which give but 
few seeds generally produce the best seedlings. Hand 
pollenized seeds are of more value than these naturally 
fertilized. It at least seems rational to expect more from 
seed secured by the union of our best kinds than from that 
produced l)y the wind without intent, or the nee whose only 
ob.iect is to secure his daily sustenance. If this be true, our 
results depend upon the degree of intelligence employed in 
the selection of parents, and thorouglmess witli which every 
detail if! attended. 

>^rr<lJiu(/s — The seeds should be sown in light soil as 
soon as they are ripe, using pots, pans or shallow boxes. 
They sliould be covered lightly and kept in a temperature 
of aliout r.O degrees, luitil they have germinated. If kept 
in too high a temperature the seedlings are quite apt to 
damp off. and at the first indication of such a condition 
move to a more airy place. As soon as tliev Iiave made 
their second jiair of characteristic leaves. ]irick off into 
shallow boxes, planting about an inch apart. When show- 
ing signs of crowding they should be potted separately and 



82 SMITirs CHRYSA.XTIIEMU.M MANUAL 

reputtcd as often as necessary or idanted into the beneli, 
same as standard varieties. 

They Ilower (he tirst year from seed and tliere is notlilDg 
more interestin;; liian to i(>iil< over a lar-e lot of seedlin'.s 
and note the diversity of color and form. After the planted 
seedlings are estalilished we niji ont the top and allow two 
breaks to <-onie nj) and tlowei'. and as far as possible select 
a ci'own or early bnd on one of these, and terminal or late 
I»nd ui)on the other: thus we ij;ain some knowlediie the first 
year as to which bnd pi'odnces the iiest (lower. Those that 
are considered desiralsie may be saved and given further 
trial. 

Sjxirts — The word "sjioi't" in connection with chrysan- 
themums refers to varieties which originate by bud varin- 
lious and are tei'med "siiorts." Occasionally a variety will 
s]iort the tirst or s(>cond year after its origin from seed, but 
generally it does not take jilace luitil several years have 
elapsed, and then of(en simuUaneously in remote localities. 
This has occurred in this country, the most marked case 
lieing that of ;\Irs. .1. .Tones, sjtortiug to yellow. .Vs a rule 
most of the whites s]iort to yellow, ami |)inks to white, al- 
tboirgh \"iviand INForel gave us a s])ort variety, ('b-i^-. I>avis, 
which is bronze, and has also sjioi'ted (o white in (lie vai'iety 
Mrs. IJitson. T.onis P.oehmer, magenta ]uuk. s])oi-ted to white 
and nam<'d T/Enfant des deaux" Mondes. This variety 
spoi'ted under French cidtivation to yellow and is known 
ns Tjeoc;)die Gentils. Louis Tloehmei', t]\o orii.'inal vai'iety, 
has given us several other sjioi-t varieiies. such as Wm. 
Falconer, light ]>ink : ^Irs. ('. P.. Freeman, bronzy yellow, 
and Reauty of Truro, bronzy cei-ise. It is worthy to note 
that many varieties have chane-ed their co'or in this way 
lunny times, while others that are now vcrv old have never 
shown any inclination to s])oi't. Tlu^ vellow varieties seem 
less inclined to s])(U't than other colors, possil)ly this is 



SEEDLI.NCS ANIJ SPOUTS. 83 

due to the fact that yf^llow is the original color of elirysan- 
theiinuns. 

Philadelphia, a light yellow, gave a .sport several 
shades darker, and is known as Pennsylvania. It need not 
surprise anyone cultivating clirysanthemums to notice a 
plant having flowers of two distinct colors. Sometimes the 
spoi't flowers will be one-half the original color, and again 
possibly on the same plant another bloom will be the new 
color entire. 

It has been reported tliat flowers sometimes sport in 
form, that is. give a flower of entirely different form from 
that originally possessed, such as an incurved flower sport- 
ing to a reflexed form. Such castas are at least few and far 
between, in fact we are inclined to disbelieve that such 
changes have really taken place. Cultural conditions often 
change the form of flowers materially, also buds selected, 
and doubtless some of the cases reported were simply due 
to these causes. 

To perpetuate the new color of the plant that has 
sported the method generally followed is to cut out the loaf 
on the flowering wood with a lioel or portion of stem and 
place these under a bell glass or closed case to induce them 
to make root after which they send forth new growth. These 
are planted the next season and if any i)ossess the original 
color they are discarded and tliose of the new color saved. 
Generally in the course of two or three i^ensons it is safe to 
consider the new variety cstalilislied and color fixed, as it 
is tei'med. 



CHAI'TEll Mil 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 



Some time previous to the tlowering season suitable 
boxes sbouhl be made ready. Also material necessary for 
packing and staging, such as cleats, excelsior, paper for 
wrapping and lining cases, labels for plants and cut blooms, 
and exhibitors' cards. This will save some anxiety at tlie 
last when so many details re<piire constant attention. 

Plants — All pots should bo washed clean before pack- 
ing and each plant securely staked and tied, thoroughly 
watered, and plainly labeled. Where specimens and stan- 
dards are to be exbiliited, the intervening spaces between 
the blooms should be filled with crumpled tissue paper to 
prevent sliifting and I'ubliing against each other. With a 
strong coi'd draw the jdant together as close as possible 
without injury. 

If they are to be transported a short distance and the 
weather is favorable they may be taken as they are. For 
long shipments that will be six or more hours in transit, 
provide each plant with a frame work, around which paper 
can be wrapped to keep the lilooms clean. Should there be 
danger of freezing, cotton wadding or several thicknesses 
of paiier will be necessary. 

Single stemmed plants are usually sbipiied in boxes the 
height of the pots, with a post in each corner (extending a 
little above the plant) to which strips are nailed horizon- 
tall.v to form n rigid framework. The spaces between the 
pots are tucked with excelsior and the flowers wrapped with 
tissue. The frame is then covered with paper or other 
material as necessity demands. 

Citt Flniro-f: — Blooms that are likely to be too far 
advanced for the exhibition should lie cut and stored in 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 



85 



water in a cool cellar with some light ( in total darkness 
the foliage soon turns yellow), cutting off a small portion 
of the stem and giving fresh water every three days. In 
this way they may be kept two or three weeks in a very 
presentable condition. 

All blooms should be cut and stored in water at least 12 
hours before packing and longer if possible. This allows 
them to take up sufficient water to harden the foliage and 




ft inTei 



FIG. 27. WRAPPING A BLOOM. 

petals. In brighter weather it is best to do the cutting early 
in the day while they are firm. 

The most suitable sized box for packing depends upon 
the size of the blooms, number to be packed, and required 
length of stems when staged. They must be of sufficient 
depth so that the cover when nailed does not crush the 
blooms. When large exhibits are to be handled, boxes 6 



8(j 



SMITHS ('IlKYSAM'nr;Ml'M MANUAL 



feet lull,!;-, - I'eet wide, and 10 to 12 inches deep or there- 
abouts are the most serviceable. 

The box is lirst lined with paper to exclude air, and if 
cold, enouiih to protect from frost. The next step is to con- 
sult the si-hcdnle. sorting out each entry so they may be 
packed by themselves. If no one accompanies them to 
attend llie stai^Mii.u;. each class should be divided with a 
sheet of ]iaper and jilainly marked, .^ivinii class number so 
that the person in charge will know each entry at a glance. 

Each bloom should be 
lalieled witli a wliite card 
liiaiiily written. A very 
suitable size for this pur- 
pose is 1-'| by 4 inches, 
whieli should be tied to the 
stem ne-'v the bloom. A 
few extra blooms should 
lie added in ca-e some are 
injured in transit and the 
packer will ha\-c t;> u-c- liis 
jndLcnieiil as to how many 
ai'e reciuired. Ity their pres- 
ent <-oiidition and a|)parcnt 
siilistaiice. Whei'c* the en- 
tries reipiire a larL'e num- 
lier of blooms it is advis- 
iible to label tluMU. even 
tiiou.ch they are to lie ac- 
companied with someone 
who is conversant with un- 
packing and st.a.uin.ir, as it saves much time and confusion 
at the last moment when it is urgent that all exhibits be 
in ])osition at tiie allotted hour. 

Make rolls of excelsior wrapped with paper 21-2 or 3 




FIG. 28. Bl.OOM WRAPPED. 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 87 

Indies in diameter, and as long as tlie box is wide. Sheets 
of tissue paper large enough to cover the blooms should be 
cut on one side to the center, and having the blooms near 
at hand, all is ready. It re(iuires t\v*) persons to pack to 
advantage, one placing the blooms in the box and attend- 
ing to cleating, and a helper tying on the labels and liold- 
ing the blooms while being wrapped. Beginning at one 
end of the box place a roll of excelsior G or 8 inches from 
the end. The helper takes a bloom and holding it head 
down the packer slides the cut tissue paper around the 
stem, draws the edges downward giving the corners a few 
turns with the thumb and finger to keep in position. See 
Figs. 27 and 28. 

It is difficult to say bow tight the blooms sliould be 
wrapped, much depends upon their form and condition. 
Those of tlie reflexed type, like Viviand Morel and Yana- 
riva. may lie rolled moderately close without injury, while 
such varieties as Mrs. II. Robinson and Col. D. Appleton. 
should be given a little more fi'eedom. After a little ex- 
lierience the packer will determine at a glance Iiow tight 

It is then placed in the box allowing the neck of tlie 
(lower to rest on the roll of excelsior, the object being to 
prevent outer petals being bruised. It is wise to select the 
largest blooms and those having the longest stems for the 
end of the box. This operation is rejieated until the first 
row across the box is completed and the packing is contin- 
ued in the same manner until the third row is finished. 
See Fig. 20. 

One or more wet newspajiers should lie laid over tlie foli- 
age. Over these a wooden cleat is placed, pressing the stems 
down firm and nailing securely from the outside of the box 
into the end of the cleat, so they can not shift. The cleats 
should lie placed far enough from the blooms so the next 
tier will not rest upon them and thus l)e injured. Tlie 



ss 



SMITH S CIIRYSAATllEMUM MANUAL 



pacl<iiig is c-ontinued until llie blooms cover altoiit one-third 
of tlie box, then begin at the otlier end and i)roceed in tlic 
same manner. 

In warm weather it is advisable to well moisten the 
foliage, the aim being to keep the fuliage wet and (lie 
blooms dry. Some iirot'er not to wrap the blooms, but 
instead place on a sheet of tissue, bringing the ends up so as 
to act as a paiiilion between the iidjoining blooms, .also the 
sides. This s,\sjcm of iiacking is along tla." s.-niic lines as 
that usuall.v emplo.vcd b.\- (he wholesale dcalei-s in packing 
Roses and Carnations. 




Flo. 20. lil.OOMS PKOriJKIV I'AC KKI). 



ForeifiH Shipments — Flowers grown in this country 
have been exhibited in England and vice versa. The diree- 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 8U 

tions given for packing are practical in sucli cases, but 
would suggest the stems being cut not to exceed 12 inclies 
ill length, and use Kift's Rubber Capped Flower Tube for 
each specimen. These tubes are glass vials with a tight 
fitting rubber cap which confines the water to the tube and 
thus the supply is sufficient to keep them fresh. 

Another method is sometimes employed in which the 
flowers are packed so they stand upright, a very good sys- 
tem where the exhibit is not very large, or the distance to 
be shipjied very long. TJie size commonly used is V> I)y 4 
feet and 2 ft. 6 inches in depth, but should the schedules 
require longer stems a deeper box will be necessary. These 
boxes are provided with cleats, one a few inches from the 
bottom and the other placed so as to come directly under 
the bloom. In packing put two cleats in position at one 
end of the box and after the blooms have been wra]iped set 
them in ixisition and tie securely, top and bottom. 

As soon as one row is completed another set of cleats 
are adjusted and the work continued. The ends of the 
stems may be wrapped with spliagimm moss or insorterl 
in rubber capped tubes filled with water to keep the 
foliage from wilting. Packed in this manner the foliage 
dries out more than when laid flat in the box owing to the 
large amount of air si^ace, hence the necessity of providing 
moisture at the end of the stem to prevent flagging. These 
boxes are generally constructed with a hinge cover, also 
one side or end hinged from the middle so that the upper 
portion may be let down, making it more convenient in 
packing and unpacking. 

Drrsixiini Flnvcra — This is resorted to somewhat Iiy 
foreign exhibitors, but little practiced in this country. In 
fact most schedules prohibit dressing. TJie Incurved sec- 
tion requires more attention than tlie .Tniiaiiose when this 
operation is resorted to. Tlie method is simply to remove 



'.Ml smith's fURYSAN'THK.MrM MAMAL. 

short or deformed petals and arrange perfect ones to 
occupy their phices, also to separate those which have 
i:ro\vu one into the other to form a regular rounded flower 
when finished. Siinietimes semi-incurv<M| .Tapancse are 
dressed to give tliem a reMexed appearance. As far as 
known about the only dressing done in tliis country is the 
I'emoval of deformed petals, which are lilcely to occur in 
any of the types. Very often strap-petals will apiiear in 
tlie cushion of the Anemone varieties and thus detract from 
tiicir ai)iiearance, and sliDuld In- removed witli a pair of 

tWCC/.Cl'S. 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
FOR EVERYONE 



Since 1907 we have devoted our entire tinii-. and 
energy to the (le\-elopment of all types of Chi-ysan- 
thcinuni.s and e.speeially those best adarited to cnm- 
nificial and exhibition use. 

( »ur collection of standard varieties is unsur- 
passed in America. As soon as the merits of tlie new 
soi'ts are established we discard tlie weakest of the 
old kinds and thus keep our offerin.us strictly up- 
to-date. 



Elmer D. Smith & Co. 

Adrian, Mich. 

Catalogue oil aiM>li<^'atiuu. 



CHAPTER XIV, 



Stagiiirf Plants — In arrangiug plants for exhibition 
luueli depends upon tlie scliednle, wliicb sliould be thor- 
ouglily digested to conform with the rules and regulations. 
Then consider space allotted, and if next the wall to be 
viewed from one side only, the tallest plants should be put 
in the background and others graduated to the shortest in 
front. 

If the exhibit contains more than one color this should 
be considered and arranged for best effect. Groups for the 
center of the hall are arranged on the same plan, but such 
exhibits are viewed from all sides and will require greater 
effort to bring out uniformity. 

In France the space allotted to plants is covered with 
light soil, into which the pots are plunged and the earth 
covered with green sod. In this way tliey have the appear- 
ance of being permanently planted, which adds greatly to 
the attractiveness of the exhibit. 

Staging Blooms — Collections of cut blooms are gener- 
ally shown one in a vase, arranged on tables usually at the 
side of the hall, so there is but one congregational side. 
Such tables will accommodate three rows in width and after 
the vases or glasses are so placed the blooms are arranged 
so the middle row will be slightly elevated above the first 
and the back row above the second. The object is to have 
each bloom show distinctly both its size and form. Tlie 
largest ones should be placed in the back row and the 
smallest in front. When placed in this manner they appear 
to be nearly all of a size. The light and dark colors should 
be alternated as much as possiI)le for the best effect. 



92 smith's ClIKYSANTIIEMUM ilANUAI, 

If there are restrictions as to lengtla of stems this iimst 
be coDsidereil at the begiuniug, but if left to the discretiou 
of the exhibitor ten or twelve inches for tlie tirst row will 
be about right, and three to six inches longer for each of 
the successive rows, according to the depth of tlie bloom. 

The foregoing rule is practical where the tables are of 
regulation height, about 2 ft. 7 in., but if only a foot or so 
from the tloor it will hardly be necessary to make any dis- 
tinction as to length of stem, inasmuch as tlie exhibit will 
be viewed from above. When tlie tables are built terrace- 
fashion the stems may be nearly or (piite the same length. 

liddid.s— The board system so popular in England for 
staging collections is seldom used or little known to Ameri- 
can exhibitors. It consists of a board 18x24 inches nailed 
to end pieces so that the front will be three and the back 
six inches above tlie table and are painted green. Holes 
are bored to accommodate twelve blooms, throe rows front 
to back. The ]ietals of each bloom are supported by a fun- 
nel-sliaped cup terminating witli a tube into whii-li tlie stem 
is inserted and when properly adjusted a \Aedge is crowded 
between tube and stem to bold securely. The stem and cup 
tube are passed through the hole in the board into a tube 
containing water. 

At the Kansas City show of 1002, mossed banks were 
substituted for the typical boards. These were constructed 
by nailing G-inch boards ruiniing lengthways of tables to 
scantling. The boards were placed far enougli apart to ad- 
mit the neck of a bottle and the back elevated to give a 
slope of about 3 inches to the foot. Bottles were placed so 
the top of the necks were even with the boards, at the 
proper distance apart to receive the blooms and the whole 
framework was then covered with green moss. This system 
is very practical where largo collections are to bo staged 
and has been adopted by many of the managements of the 



93 



leading flower shows. This system enables us to display a 
greater number of varieties, including those with weak 
stems, which cannot be staged in vases to advantage. 

Vases — Classes calling for more than one bloom of a 
kind are generally staged together and may vary in num- 
ber up to 100. When three to six are required, IS to 24 
inches are considered sufficient length of stem ; twenty-five 
to fifty, 3 to 4 feet, and vases of one hundred will need 5 
feet or more for those occupying the center. In arranging 
vases of twenty-five or more the aim is to have eacli idoom 
show distinctly and the general appearance as symmetrical 
as possible. 

When the schedule states "arranged for efTect." colors 
whicli harmonize are considered best, such as white and 
pink, or yellow, bronze and red. Sometimes a few of the 
Anemone section may be used to advantage in such classes, 
giving diversity in form. 



CHAPTER XV 



EXHIBITIONS 



The Managemciii — The animal exliiliitiou requires 
mental and physical as well as financial support and is 
generally more successful when backed by a strong organ- 
ization. Very few exhibitions are certain of Iteing success- 
ful year after year, particularly from a financial stand- 
point. Unfavoral)le weather is likely to impair the attend- 
ance and some other local attraction may divert the public. 

Such oi'ganizations should api»iint committees to lian 
die certain parts of the work, such as arranging and mail- 
ing a schedule, music, advertising, and as the date of the 
show draws near supplement committees for decorating the 
hall, etc. The preliminary, or, if possible, complete sched- 
ule, giving the principal classes, should be mailed in Jan 
nary. 

INIake them definite. For example: Best twenty-four 
blooms white, three varieties, stems not less than 30 inches, 
shown in one vase. Best twonty-five ])lants, five varieties, 
grown to single stem and bloom in five-inch pots, not ex- 
ceeding rtO inches aI»ove ]iots. Wlicn so arranged the man- 
ager is not hampered with questions. The exhil)itor knows 
.iust what is required, and the .iudge has but one thing to 
consider, — quality. 

The larger tlie ])remium the stronger the competition. 
Big prizes and iionor of winning same are incentives which 
are far-reaching and sliould be duly considered for sake of 
display. This course is :\ greater necessity in localities 
remote from the center of chrysanthemum cultivation, 
which is iirobably between Cleveland and Tittsburg. 

If a final or complete iiremium list is issued it should 



EXHIBITIONS 95 

appear a few weeks before tbe date of the show ami may be 
arranged to serve the purpose of a program and thus cur- 
tail expeuse. The advertising is an important feature and 
the press should be furnished with short items of interest 
to the puljlio that will also refer directly to the exhibition. 
If possible they should be supplied with photographs of 
intended exhibits and description of same. A month prior 
to the date posters and other forms of advertising will be 
necessary. 

It is of great importance to have a competent secretary, 
as much depends upon accurate records of entries, pre- 
miums, etc. W. N. Rudd, Mt. Greenwood. 111., in his able 
article, "The Management of the Exhibition," read before 
the American Carnation Society, suggests tbe following 
for the accounting department: "The writer jn-efers the 
De La Mare system of exhibition accounting, as being sim- 
ple, speedy and accurate. It consists of on t-xlitbitor's book. 
a class book, a judge's book, entry cards and envelojies for 
them, a set of gummed labels of different colors, 'first jire- 
mium,' 'second premium,' etc., to be attached to entry cards 
b.v the ,iudges as they complete each class." 

The person best suited to act as superintendent or man- 
ager should be selected and have full charge of all materi- 
als j)ertnining to the exliibition from the first day until the 
hall is vacated. From tbe sdiedule and entries received he 
will know about how nmch sjiaco will lie necessary for the 
various classes, and if wise will study the hall carefull.v. 
mapping out where each class and group shall be staged. 
It will also be his dut.v. unless left to a committee, to pro- 
vide suitable tables and vases and other requisites necessar.v. 
The vases should be of suitable size to accommodate tbe 
various classes, but should be uniform in each specific 
class, so one exhibitor has no advantage over another. Tliese 
should be filled and if possible iilaced ready for use. on or 



rxj smith's chrysanthemum manual 

liefore the opeuiiig day to avoid coufusion and delay. 

Provide new features each year, as the i)ul)lic are con- 
stantly looking for something novel. 

Pre-arrangement is an important factor lo well con- 
ducted exhiliitions. Details tliat can he arranucd prior to 
the opening will sa\'c the manager mndi anxiety at the last 
moment, and wliatccr fai-ilitatcs his worlv will assist tlie 
exhihitor and tlic fasl< of judging will he less laliorious. 

The JiKhjc — In selecting a judge it sliould he a person 
having snlhcienl expei-ience to he fully i'oin])etent. and 
whose lionor and integrity are ahove reproach. One to three 
judges are the nundier generally used, sometimes in large 
exhiliitions wliere there are many classes to consider, a 
gre.-iter nnndier ai'c pressed into s(>rvice and divided into 
sets, each set heing allotted certain classes. When so ar- 
ranged the awards are nnide with tlie least jiossihle delay. 

The Chrysanthemum Society of America h;is adopted 
scales for judging which define the imiiortanr (lualilications 
to he considered in the various classes. They are as fol- 
lows : 

Scale of points for hush jilants and standai'ds. 

E<iuality of size and form of plant 40 

Excellence of bloom ."."» 

Foliage 2~) 

Total 100 

Scale of points for plants grown to single st(>ni .and one 
bloom. A height of not over tliree feel is recommended for 
I)lants in this d.-iss. and jiots not over siv jnrhes in diam- 
etci*. 

Excellence of bloom 40 

Compact, sturdy growth ;t.^) 

Foliage 2.5 

Total 100 



EXUJLilTlUiNS 97 

CUT UL()U.\;,S 
FOB C'O.MMEKCIAL IHHl'OSKS 

Color 20 

Form lij 

Fulluess lU 

Stem 15 

Foliage 15 

Substance 15 

Size 10 

Total 100 

FOK EXHIBITION' Pl'liPOSKS. 

Color 15 

stem 5 

Foliage 5 

Fullness 15 

Form 15 

Deptli 15 

Size 30 

Total 100 

SINCiEK VAUlKTIiS 

Color 40 

Form 20 

Substance 20 

Stem and Foliage 20 

Total 100 

Single varieties to be divided in two classes — tlie large 
flowered and the small flowered. 



98 SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

I'O.MI'OXS 

Color 40 

Form 20 

Stem and Koliaiic 20 

Fullness 20 

Total 100 

There are many qualilications to lie considered and it is 
not difficult to determine which exhibit is most meritorious. 
The color should he clear and positive, whatever it may be. 
There is no form which could be considered perfect for all 
the varying types. Each possess specimens which are ideal 
as far as their particular class is concerned. Blooms hav- 
ing the greatest de])tli would have preference to those tliat 
are shallow, not only in <iuality of form, but size. Size is 
•easily determined and can be decided upon without great 
effort. 

Fullness refers to the numlier of petals, hence tliose 
showing a disc or eye would lie considered deficient in this 
respect. 

Substance deals with the texture of the petals and those 
whicli are soft and flabiiy sliould be secondary to those 
])ossessing a firm texture. 

The stems should l)e straight, of good length and stiff 
enough to properly sujiport tlic lilo(tni. The foliage should 
be luxuriant, of good color and well up to the bloom. It is 
not always necessary to use scales in judging, as often the 
contrast of competitive exJiiliits ;\re so pronounced that 
awards can lie made with but little consideration. Where 
competition is close it is well to keeji tlie imjiortant factors 
in mind, and if necessaiy use tlicni. 

Tlir E-rhihitor — A practic.il exhibitor knows the ini- 
liort.nnce of thorougiily understanding the rules and regu- 



EXIHIUTIONS 99 

latious as well as the schedule of the exhibition in which he 
is to compete, and genei'ally masters these prior to the date. 
In classes which specify certain colors such as white, pink, 
yellow, etc., it is advisable to select a variety that is most 
perfect in this respect, avoiding those that are shaded or 
marked with other colors. Never be confident of success 
before your blooms are staged or at least until you have seen 
those of your competitors. 

Remember that judging to a certain degree is based 
upon individual preference, and judges, like others, do not 
all see the same. The decision may be at a variance with 
your opinion, but whether right or wrong, do not abuse the 
judge, or criticise his actions too severely. If you are satis- 
fied there is something radically wrong and your exhibit has 
not been given just consideration, enter a protest. 'I'liis 
should be made in writing, setting forth the grounds of your 
grievance. Sign and liand to the secretnry to lay the mat- 
ter before the judge. 

Abide by the rules and regulations and never resort to 
trickery or any kind to gain a i)oint. Such a course can- 
not succeed long at i)est, and it would be humiliating to 
have an exhibit dis<]ualifled by such a jn-ocedure. 



CHAPTER Xrl. 



CLASSIFICATION 




FIG. 30. INCURVED. 

form iiiicl petalage are grouped into classes 
these peculiarities. 



As very few scliedules in- 
clude classes for specific 
types, knowledge pertaining to 
classificatiou has not heen 
fully promulgated and accept- 
ed as an important adjunct to 
Chrysantliemum cnllure. And 
further, tlie hypridist lias so 
crossed and re-crossod some of 
the sections, that the identity 
is often rather obscure. 

Chrysantlienunns possess- 
ing certain cliaracteristics of 
according to 




The following are aliridged 
descriptions of various types 
as adojited liy the National 
Clirysanthemnm Society of 
England : 

Incurred — The distinguish- 
ing cliaracteristics are the 
globular form and regular out- 
line of bloom. They sliould be 
.•IS near a globe as possible, the 
llorets broad, smooth, round- 
ed at the tips, and regularly 
FIG. 31. JAPANESE. arranged. A hollow center or 

eye, or unevenness of outline is a serious defect. See Fig. 30. 
Japanese — No definition can be given to include all 
the remarkable VTriations of form found in Die .Tapanese 



CLASSIFICATION. 



101 



chiysantbemums. The uuijority of the leading varieties are 
so distinctly marked, that nearly every one would require a 
special definition. Without regarding tlie colors, the form 
of the tiorets and blooms furnish ample means of identifi- 
cation, 'riio florets are either Hal. tinted, (inilled or tubu- 
lated, and of varying lengtli, from sliort, straight, spreading 
florets, to long, drooping, twisted, or irregularly incurved 
ones. See Fig. 31. 



W^ 


''Mi 




Q 




^ 




sy 


n 






JAPANESt; l.NCURVED. 



.Itijitnnsc /iiciirrc'l — Xo dchnition can ])e given to in- 
clude all the renmrkahle varieties found in this type. The 
florets are either flat, tinted, quilled <ir tnlmlafed and (if 
varying length, from short, straight, and spreading, to long, 
drooping, twisted, or irregularly incurved. See Fig. 32. 

Hainj — The chief peculiarity consists of a covering of 
short glandular hairs on the reverse of the florets. This 
hair-like growth is shown to be.st advantage where the 
florets ni-o incurved. See Fig. 33. 



102 



.SMITH S CHRYSANTHEMUM MAMAL 




RK1'I>EXED. 

lonlcr or i-;i\' 



I'cpe.red — The flowers 
should lie perfectly circular in 
outline, without a trace of 
thinness in tlie center, henii- 
si)heroi(hil and with broad, 
overlaii]iin^ florets. See Fi^. 
:!4. 

L a r (I c Anemones — The 
characteristics are large size, 
liiuh. neatly formed centers 
and I'c^ularly arranged florets, 
one (luilled and forming the 
center or disc, the other flat 
and iKU-izontally arranged. 
See Fig. .■■.5. 



JdlHiiK'sc AiiciiiDiies — -These 
are remarkalile for their large 
size and fantastic form. The 
disc is more or less regular 
in outline, while the ray tior- 
ets vary in length, In'eadth 
and arr.-mgement. The.v may 
be narrow and twisted, broad 
ami curh'd. or droop, forming 
a fringe in some instances. 

See tig. ,'x. |,|,; ;•.-, i.AHCE ANEMONES. 

I'ohiiioiis — Small blooms, dwarf growth and small 
leaves distinguish the true Pompons. Tlie blooms are some- 
what tiat or nearl.v globular, averaging 1'_. indies in diam- 
eter; neat, compact with short. Hat. (luted florets. See 
Fig. .-.f.. 




CLASSIFICATION. 



103 



Pompon Aiiciiioiics — These, in style of ^a-owtli and size. 
are similar to the Pompons. Tliey are really small flowered 
Anemones, having a center or disc of (luilled and more or 
less regularly arranged ray florets. 8ee Fig. :>S. 

Single — Ttiese may be any size and form, but should 
not have more than a double row of ray florets and arranged 
sufficiently close together to form a dense fringe. This sec- 
tion is divided into two classes known as the large and 
small flowering. See Fig. 39. 

The National Chrysanthemum Society of England in 
their last official catalogue have added the following sec- 
tions : 

Early Flotcerimj Varieties — (A) Large flowering Japan- 
ese, (B) Pompons. 

Spideni, I'liimc(h Feathcri/ and Fantastic. 

Market and Deeorative in three sections, viz. : Early, 
midseason and late. 

The floral committee of the Na- 
tional Society of England have revised 
the foregoing classifications, but as 
these have not as yet been approved 
of, by the Chrysanthemum Society of 
America, those given above will mci ♦ 
the requirements of those interested n; 
this subject. 

Identifying — Each year flowers a:.' 
sent to experts for identification. Itiil 
very few understand how difficult it is 
to identify them when received in poor 
condition. Possibly the recipient has 
been looking at perfect flowers and the 
specimens received are entirely differ- 
ent as to size, color and other quali- 
fications. Foliage is often the surest fig. 3(j. pompon. 




104 



SMITH S CHEYSANTHEWUM MANUAL 



means of identification and in submitting samples do not 
fail to send a few leaves with each specimen. 

If shipped by express see instructions for packing 
flowers, page Sri. if sent l)y inail wrap each bloom with 
tissue paper and line the ]»>x. with wax paper to prevent 
evaporation, and see tliat the l)ox is of sufficient strength 
not to be crushed. 

Each bloom 
should be num- 
bered and a 
record kept so 
tlicy can be re- 
ported upon in 
like manner. 

The condi- 
tions u n d e r 
which Chrys- 
anthemums are 
grown are so 
varied and the 
lilooms them- 
selves so dis- 
tinct that this 
task is V e r y 
difficult and 
often fruitless. 
Selection — 
When viewing 
the exhibition 
table, notes are 
111 a d e of the 
best varieties to be grown the following season. In making 
these selections it is wise to consider which are most suitable 




JAPANESE ANEMONE. 



CLASSIFICATION 



105 



for the desirod purpose, 'riic two chief classes are comiuer- 
cial and exhibition — the former should be subdivided as fol- 
lows : First, where tlie product is paclved and transported 

to the inarlvct and often re- 
liaeked and reshipped before 
they reach the consumer ; sec- 
ond, those produced for local 
consumption. 

In the first instance those 
possessing pleasin.c; colors, 
such as wliite. pink, and yel- 
low, good sulistance, incurved 
form and long, strong stems 
with clean foliage, are the 
most dcsiralile. 

Those growing for retail 
trade can include many others 




POMPOX ANEMONE. 



for sake of variety. 
Some of the artistic 
formed sorts, like lora, 
a few Anemones, and 
Pompous, will add ma- 
terially to any form of 
arrangement from an 
.'irtistic point of view. 

The exhibition va- 
rieties m a y also be 
d i V i (1 e d as follows : 
First, those for collec- 
tions which are staged 
singly, and second, those 
for vases of twelve or 
more to be staged col- 
lectively. 

Size is of most im- 
portance for collections 




KU; smith's CIIUVSANTIIKMIM MAM'AL 

and as the stems usually do not exceed 16 inches iu leiigtli, 
are not so importaut i)rovided tbey are strong enough to 
hold the flowers iu an upright position. 

For vases, si/.e and cujors. superlative in their respec- 
tive classes are the most important factors. Strong, sturdy 
stems, well clothed with foliage are most effective and 
should be taken into consideration. 

Many varieties suitable for the connnercial grower are 
ei|ually serviceable for exhibition. Each grower must con- 
sider his needs. If the demand is for medium I'ather than 
large blooms, it is best to inspect the varieties grown on a 
t'onunercial place, or rely on the judgment of those who 
give this matter their constant attention. 

t'onunercially the foreign varieties have met with little 
favor, as will be seen by referring to au.v list recommended 
for this purj)ose. 

'I'hey generally re<iuire greater attention to produce 
marketal)le Howers. than those of American origin. In this 
country the great demand has been for good commercial 
sorts and the hybridizer lias selected with this in view, 
while foreign seedlings possessing superior exhibition quali- 
ties are most popular. 

Do not discard those which do well under your method 
until e.xperience has thoroughly demonstrated the merits of 
the newcomers. 

Novelties should be tested from year to year, retaining 
those which show advancement, bearing in mind the .\nier- 
ican varieties are best for commercial growers and the im- 
I)urtations should be carefully considered for exhibition. 



FERTILENE 

The IDEAL PLANT FOOD 



UNEQUALED FOR PRODUCIN.G 
LUSTY CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

A complete Chemical Fertilizer, perfectly soluble 
and contains tlie same constituents as those incor- 
porated in manure, supplying proper quantities or 
nitrogen, potash and pliosphoric acid, which are the 
most important elements conducive to plant life. 

Stable manure contains less than 2% while Fer- 
tilene contains over 65% actual plant food. 

The analysis given by the State Chemist is as follows: 
Nitrogen, 12.24%. 

Phosphoric Acid, 27.84%. 
Potash, 25.9%. 

Total, 68.98% available plant food. 
The advantages of Ftrtilene over other manures are: 
It is clean. 

It has no offensive odor. 
It is soluble and thus easily prepared. 
It is immediate and permanent in its effect. 
It is so highly concentrated that it is the cheapest. 
It saves time and labor and gives accurate results. 

1/2 Lb 20c Prepaired by mail.... 30c 

1 Lb 35c Prepaired by mail.... 50c 

10 Lbs $ 3.00 

25 Lbs 6.00 

50 libs 1 0.00 

One oiiuce is .sullioieiit for ten gallons. 
Full direetion.s aoeonipauy each paeka^e. 

I*rei»ared and sold only by 

ELMER D. SMITH & CO. 



ADRIAN. MICHIGAN 



The Best Color Chart 

For Florists, Seedsmen and Nurserymen 

Ei'iurl, iJciniiiiiy, May 'j, 11)11. 
American Florist Co., Chicago, U. S. A., 

Dear Sirs: If you have any copies left of the 
comparative color plate compiled by F. Sciiuyier 
Mathews, 1 shall be obliged if you will send me one, 
my copy having somehow got mislaid and I do not 
like to be without this excellent little production. 
Yours truly. ERNST BENARY. 

P U B L rS.H ED AND FOR SALE BY THE 

AMERICAN FLORIST C? 

440 S. DEARBORN STREET, CHICAGO 

PRICE ONE DOLLAR, POSTPAID 



G/\RL)ErsiNG, The Paper With a Purpose 

' iAUDEN IXG is nut a di'j-as-dust publication contain- 
ing a re-hasli of quasi-bolanical rigmarole, but a live paper 
with live contributors wiio have practiced what they preach 
and whose purpose it is to intei-est and instruct beginners 
in the most fascinating, healthful and uplifting of pursuits 
or hobbies — that of rentlering the home surroundings beau- 
tiful by the planting, conservation and care of hard.y and 
beautiful plants, trees and shrubs. 

A FK\V SALIKNT FKATURES 

Our TREES AND SHRUBS department contains con- 
tributions fiom the greatest living writers on this all 
important subject to the home planter. The columns de- 
voted to VEGBTABBE AND FBUVVER GARDENING are 
replete with the latest information on all subjects pertain- 
ing to these departments. FRUIT GROWING receives at- 
tention commensurate with its importance. We also tell, 
under thu heading THE EXPERIMENT STATIONS, what 
our most advanced government horticulturists are doing 
along any line that our readers are interested in. Roses, 
orchids, violets and other popular flowers are not forgotten, 
while "in every issue" THE ORACLE gives advice to those 
seeking it on any and every point where they may be in 
doubt, this advice being entirely free. 

Published promptly the 1st and 15th of each month. 
Subscription price, $2.00 P'r year, 24 numbers. Advertising 
rates on application to the 
(;\IJ»K\I^G COMI'A.W . . . Iloiioii Ttiiiltliii^. Chicago 



Hammond's Thrip Juice 

i REGISTERED 

jNo. 2. Non-Poisonous 

A Concentrated Liuuid Inseeticide for Siiekiug Insects. 
For Use on Plants, Trees, Shrubs, Etc. 



To be diluted IG to 40 times its bulk of water. 

For the destruc- 
tion of the Thrip or 
Vine Hopper. Kills 
the Scale, the Aphis, 
the Red Spider. Cat- 
erpillars, and insects 
of this ciass gener- 
ally. By spraying- 
wit h water it is us- 
able in the water 
used for ordinary 
drenching-. Thrip 
Juice can be safely 
applied upon trees of 
all sizes, and in cit- 
ies where the Worms 
infest the shade 
trees, one seasonalile 
application will stop 
the difficulty. 

Directions for use: Thi-iji Juice is fo be diluted for 
use with water, to the extent of one i)ortioii of Tliriji 
Juice to from 10 to 40 i)arts of water, ;iiid then applied 
by spraying- or sprinkling all vermin infested plants 
thoroughly. Ry iisfn;;- occasionally upon greenhouse plants 
a great deal <i( damage from insects can l)e avoided. 




THOIIAS R. TOAVNS 
Oranse throve <'ontractor and \urseynian 

Holguin, Province of Santiago, Cuba, Feb. 2S. 1908. 
Mr. Benjamin Hammond, Fishl<ill-on-Hudson N. Y. 

Dear Sir: T have received through the Insecticide 
Company of Cuba, .5 Baratillo St., Havana, Cuba, your last 
shipment. 

"We have done enough v>-ork dur-ing the past five years 
■with Thrip .Juice, Slug Shot, etc.. to feel full confidence 
in recommending these articles. Tlie proof of the orange 
tree picture is O. K. Since that picture was taken it has 
borne its first crop of at least 500 Tangerine oranges and 
they have been sold. 

Yours truly, 

THOMAS R. TOWNS. 



mi 23 1913 



The REASON 
WHY 



Foley Green Houses are so 
popular is because they so 
successfully stand the test 
which efficiency exacts in the 
way of service, construction 
and adaption to future as 
well as immediate needs. 



The Foley Manufacturing 

COMPANY 

26th STREET AND WESTERN AVENUE 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



000 920 175 



